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THE    WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 


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THE 


WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS, 


IF 

LIFE  AT  THE  SPRINGS 


WESTS  RIM     ^75&©(]M  QA. 


NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED    BY    SAMUEL    COLMAN, 


VIII    ASTOE    HOUSE. 


1839. 


3? 

Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1839,  by 

S.    COLMAN, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New-York. 


NEW-YORK: 

Printed  by  WILLIAM  MOLIJCEUX, 
Cor.  of  Ann  and  Nassau-st. 


TO 

JAMES  CALWELL,  ESQ. 

OF    GREENBRIAR, 

*  a- 

THIS    VOLUME    IS    INSCRIBED,   BY 


THE  AUTHOR. 


MESSENGER. 


INFORMATION,  it  has  been  said,  is  generally  best  received 
when  it  comes  in  a  pleasing  form.  In  guidance  of  this 
passing  idea,  this  book  has  been  written. 

It  has  been  estimated,  that  more  than  six  thousand 
persons  visited  the  various  mineral  springs  of  Western 
Virginia  during  the  last  summer  months ;  and  it  is  not 
improbable  that  as  many,  or  more,  will  repair  to  them 
in  each  coming  year.  To  meet,  in  a  measure,  the  gene- 
ral wish  so  often  expressed,  for  some  descriptive  guide 
of  the  localities  and  attractions  of  that  celebrated  region 
of  country,  this  volume  has  been  prepared,  without  pre- 
tence; but  the  Author  claims  one  merit  for  the  book, 
which  is  faithfulness  in  description. 

Road-Side,  1839. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  I. 

Page 

Warm  Spring  Mountain ;  Warm  Springs ;  Hot  Springs ; 
Callaghans  -3 

CHAP.  II. 

<'"         w 
White  Sulphur  Springs ;  topography  of  the  place      -      21 

CHAP.  III. 

White  Sulphur ;  Amusements ;  early  discovery ;  Bare- 
ges, &c.         -  .27 

il 

CHAP.  IV. 
White  Sulphur;  Society;  Pic  Nic,  &c.      -   .     -        -    37 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  V. 

Pago 

Ride  to  the  Sweet  Springs  ,  Sweet  Springs        -        -    45 

CHAP    IV. 

Deer  Hunt  at  the  White  Sulphur;  Lewisburg;  Bridge 
of  Sighs,  &c.         ..,----54 

CHAP.  VII. 

Salt  Sulphur;  Red  Sulphur;  Grey  Sulphur;  Blue  Sul- 
plur;  60 


CHAP. 
Autumns  in  the  Mountains,        .....    66 

CHAP.  IX. 

Journal  of  a  Lady  during  a  season  at  the  White  Sul- 
phur .....        ---76 

CHAP.  X. 
The  Story  of  a  Crutch—  Scene  Hot  Springs,       -        .119 

CHAP.  XL 
Beaver-Dam  Falls  ;  Maid  of  the  Cascade,  -        -  126 


*        •  CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAP.  XH. 

Page 

Sketches  of  Character,      ------  139 

APPBITOIX,         --- 151 


WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 


CHAP.   I. 

TRAVELLING  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  -  WARM  SPRING  MOUNTAIN 
-  WARM  SPRINGS  -  HOT    SPRINGS  -  CALLAGHAN's. 


O  tell  me  not  of  other  skies ! 
The  charms  that  foreign  landscapes  wear ; 
Within  our  own  bright  borders  rise — 
Hills  and  scenes  as  grand — as  fair. 


SUMMER  in  the  United  States  is  the  season  for 
travel,  and.  it  is  then  when  all,  whom  inclination 
may  lead  and  convenience  will  permit,  are  in  motion 
for  some  quarter  where  health  and  recreation  are 
the  chief  attractions  for  the  journey;  or  where  plea- 
sure has  erected  the  temple  of  fashion.  Fortu- 
nately, our  dear  country  is  very  large,  and  the  places 
of  resort  are  numerous  where  every  taste  can  be  gra 
tified;  but,  in  no  section  of  the  Union  are  all  the  in- 
centives to  an  excursion  from  home  more  admirably 
concentrated  than  among  the  mineral  springs  of 
Western  Virginia,  and  thither  we  were  bound,  like 
many  others  in  midsummer,  determined  to  make  our 
head-quarters  at  the  White  Sulphur. 


14  VfHITE    SULPHUR    SPRINGS. 

We  had  been  travelling  for  two  days,  from  tha 
time  we  left  the  landing  near  Frederickburgh,  upoi 
the  usual  route  for  travellers  from  the  north,  coming 
from  Washington,  we  had  passed  by  Orange  court 
house,  Charlottesville,  in  sight  of  Monticello,  and 
through  Standton,  and  had  become  well  initiated 
into  all  the  modes  of  Virginia  travel  and  road  ac- 
commodations, of  neither  of  which  we  had  found 
any  cause  to  complain,  but  which,  on  the  contrary, 
had  afforded  us  much  reason  for  being  satisfied. 

We  had  left  the  last  peaks  of  the  Blue  Ridge  far 
behind  us,  and  a  few  hour's  further  ride,  brought  us 
to  the  foot  of  the  far-famed  Warm  Spring  Moun- 
tain, whose  frowning  "tops  had  been  before  us  foi 
some  hours.  We  here  descends^  from  the  stage. 
preferring  to  make  our  way.ojn  foot ;  leaving  the 
driver  to  follow  with  his  horses  at  flis  leisure. 

As  the  traveller  approaches  the  mountain,  he  be- 
gins to  surmise  how  or  in  what  manner  he  shall  ever 
be  able  to  surmount  this  broad  barrier  of  the  Alle- 
gany,  which  rises  up  before  him  to  dispute  his  pas- 
sage. The  -ascent  to  the  top  is  about  two  miles, 
over  a  narrow,  well-beaten  road,  which,  rising  gra- 
dually, edges  around  the  body  of  the  mountain  like  a 
great  winding  stairway.  It  was  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  sun  had  but  just  risen,  and,  with  elastic  steps, 
we  commenced  the  ascent;  stopping  ever  and  anon 
to  admire  the  verdant  glories  which  broke  upon  us  in 


WARM    SPRING    MOUNTAIN.  li 

some  new  scene  at  every  turn.  The  road  on  one 
hand  was  studded  with  lofty  trees,  overlooking  the 
precipices  below,  whilst  copsewood  and  numerous 
masses  of  ill-shapen  stone  on  the  other  hung  over 
our  heads,  threatening  to  stop  our  progress  at  every 
moment.  The  dew  was  still  upon  the  green  leaves, 
and  we  inhaled  the  freshness  of  the  abundant  and 
luxuriant  wild  flowers  blooming  along  our  path. 

Among  our  pa'rty,  in  advance  of  the  rest,  were 
two  foreigners ;  an  English  baronet  from  Bermuda, 

and  the  Chevalier  L- ,  a  resident  minister  in  the 

United  States.  The  chevalier  had  been  over  the 
hills  of  Tyrol,  and  among  the  dofrafiels  of  Norway, 
and  his  heart  expanded  as  he  described  to  us  the 
similarity  of  the  picturesque  scenery  we  were  now 
traversing  to  the  romantic  beauties  of  the  faderland. 

We  reached  the  point  where  the  road  crosses  the 
summit,  called  the  mountain-pass,  and  paused  awhile 
to  take  a  survey  of  the  prospect  we  had  left  behind 
us.  A  cool  refreshing  breeze  sprang  up  to  meet  us, 
and  water  from  the  hands  of  the  old  man  at  the 
mountain  hut  gave  us  new  life  and  vigor :  we  were 
'  directed  to  a  path  which  led  to  a  higher  eminence, 
where  the  finest  view  it  was  supposed  could  be  had 
of  the  surrounding  scenery. 

We  stood  upon  a  rock,  where  a  white  flag  was 
waving.  It  overlooked  every  thing  within  range 


16  WHITE    SULPHUR   SPRINGS. 

of  several  miles.  We  looked  on  for  some  moments 
in  silence,  not  even  whispering  our  admiration. 
Beneath  us,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  a  vast 
amphitheatre  of  hills  were  rising  one  above  the  other, 
looking,  in  their  uneven  surface,  like  the  dashing 
waves  of  a  troubled  sea  in  their  fury.  We  fancied 
we  could  hear  the  roaring  of  the  distant  waters. 
And  then  again  we  saw  the  blue  heavens  seemingly 
resting  upon  the  long-continued  ranges  of  the  same 
line  where  we  stood.  It  looked  to  us — the  abyss 
below — like  a  great  crater  formed  by  some  revolu- 
tion of  nature,  into  which  mountain  oft  mountain  had 
been  thrown  by  some  supernatural  power  to  fill  up 
the  great  chasm  of  earth. 

The  hour,  and  the  day,  (it  was  Sunday,)  filled  us 
with  great  reverence  for  all  things  around  us.  There 
was  no  water  view,  which  makes  the  life  of  seaboard 
landscapes,  but  all  was  reposing  in  silent  solemn 
grandeur  as  it  had  been  for  unnumbered  ages. 

Who  has  ever  been  among  these  mountains  and 
given  their  picture  to  the  world?  Save  in  the  stray 
leaf  of  some  traveller's  portfolio,  they  have  never 
been  written  down.  This  is  the  land  where  our 
poets  and  our  artists  should  come,  and  see  the  ma- 
jestyof  nature  as  it  is  in  our  own  soil. 

What  would  have  been  the  imaginings  of  the  im- 
passioned Roscoe  at  a  scene  like  this.  With  what 
eloquence  he  could  have  pictured  it ! 


WARM    SPRING    MOUNTAIN.  17 

Where  is  that  master-spirit  of  our  own  age,  whose 
wand  waved  over  the  ruins  of  the  Alhambra  and 
brought  forth  its  buried  images  of  romance  ?  Has 
he  never  been  here?  to  change  those  towering  piles 
of  blackest  rock,  now  shading  all  around  us,  into 
castles  and  fortresses,  and  people  this  solitude  with 
his  giants,  and  his  knights,  and  his  sceptred  visions 
of  antiquity ! 

Far  below  us,  on  one  hand,  we  descried,  in  the 
narrow  streak  like  a  white  pencil-mark,  the  winding 
road  by  which  we  had  ascended.  At  our  feet,  on 
the  other  side,  were  the  shining  roofs  of  the  cabins 
and  bath-houses  at  the  Warm  Springs,  where  we 
were  to  remain  a  short  while  and  revel,  if  we  pleased, 
in  the  most  luxurious  of  baths. 

The  sound  of  the  horn  called  us  again  to  the 
stage  ;  and  we  were  whirled  down  the  steep  to  the 
base  of  the  mountain  with  incredible  velocity. 

The  drivers  of  the  stages  in  this  part  of  the 
country  (mostly  young  men)  are  very  active  and 
expert,  and  will  wind  a  six-horse  team  round  the 
shortest  curves  of  the  mountains  with  the  same  skill 
and  ease  as  a  Broadway  whip  will  turn  a  phaeton. 

"A  merry  welcome  to  you,  gentlemen,"  said  the 

pleasant  landlord,  as  we  reined  up  before  the  door 

of  the  hotel  at  the  Warm  Springs,  where  a  fine 

breakfast  was  waiting  for  us.    And  then  we  did 

2* 


18  WHITE    SULPHUR    SPRINGS. 

*- :  .  _» 

justice  to  Mr.  Fry  in  every  shape:  we  made  our 
respects  to  the  fried  venison,  the  fried  fish,  and  the 
fried  chicken;  so  very  polite  had  the  morning  air 
made  us. 

On  each  plate  at  table  was  a  card,  with  the  visi- 
tor's name — but  a  beginning  of  the  novelties  of  this 
region  to  some  of  us.  We  were  weighed  in  the 
patent  scale  that  stands  in  the  colonnade,  which 
runs  the  whole  length  of  the  main  building  here, 
somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  the  hotels  at  Sara- 
toga. A  drawing  room  and  ball-room  are  on  the 
same  floor  with  the  dining-room. 

This  place  is  chiefly  celebrated  for  its  delightful 

warm  bath,  and  its  waters  are  very  efficacious  for 

chronic  diseases.     The  company  here  is  the  largest 

late  in  the  season,  when  the  visiters  are  returning 

m    "from  the  other  springs.     * 

We  went  to  the  bath.     Luxury  of  all  luxuries ! 

*     *  •          f      ^* 

It  is  worth  a  pilgrimage  of  many  miles  to  bathe  in 
this  delightful  stream.  The  bath,  over  which  is  a 
wooden  building  in  the  form  of  an  octagon,  is  about 
forty  feet  in  diameter,  large  enough  for  fifty  persons 
at  a  time;  the  water  rises  from  the  bottom  to  the 
depth  of  five  feet,  in  a  warm  state  of  about  97  de- 
grees Farenheit;  but  it  has  that  peculiar  tempera- 
ture which  no  other  water,  by  artificial  means,  can 
be  made  exactly  to  attain.  The  sensations  while 


.,    ^  IP 

*  ••          *"•'. 

WARM    SPRINGS.  19 

bathing  are  most  delicious;  the  water  is  so  soft,  and 
it  plays  in  a  most  affectionate  manner  against  the 
body,  if  I  may  use  the  expression.  All  the  most 
glowing  descriptions  which  have  been  given  of  the 
baths  of  Constantinople,  and  elsewhere,  fall  short  m 
comparison  with  the  actual  enjoyment  of  a  bath 
here  ;  which  is  sufficient  to  dispel  the  most  obstinate 
disease  of  ennui  or  hypo. 

Some  persons  have  fanciful  notions  as  to  their 
mode  of  entering  a  bath,  and  their  manner  of  equip- 
ment. 

One  young  gentleman  from  the  north,  who  had 
been  here  before,  had  a  complete  dress  made  after 
his  own  order  —  a  loose  jypwn  to  throw  on  and 
throw  off,  Turkish  slippers,  and  ornamental  cap,  &c. 
He  said  it  was  more  in  keeping  with  the  spirit  of 
the  ancients,  for  whose  customs  he  had  great  re- 
spect. 

The  spring  where  invalids  go  to  drink  the  water, 
which  bubbles  up  from  a  little  square  rustic  basin, 
is  in  the  grove,  not  far  from  the  bath-house,  and 
covered  by  a  little  shed.  The  water  is  too  warm 
to  be  pleasant  to  persons  in  the  flush  of  health;  but 
it  is  said  to  act  well  on  the  system. 

Several  little  fountains  of  the  same  description 
are  oozing  up  around  about.  It  was  here  in  the 
shade  of  these  elms,  that  the  sage  of  Monticello 


'  * 


•$•    ***** 
•   *  V.     ^ 


20  WHITE    SULPHUR    SPRINGS. 

was  wont  to  spend  so  much  of  his  time ;  and  the 
cabin  is  near  by  which  he  long  occupied. 

A  party  were  playing  at  nine-pins,  on  the  green, 
the  principal  amusement  here,  (besides  bathing;) 
and  others  were  diverting  themselves  with  quoits. 
We  left  the  Warm  Springs,  intending  to  return 
again,  at  some  day,  on  our  way  homeward.  This 
is  the  place  where  the  company  meet  on  the  wind- 
ing up  of  the  season ;  friendships,  begun  elsewhere, 
are  here  cemented ;  promises  to  write  are  made ;  and 
maidens  here  take  leave  of  their  lovers.  There  are 
many  bright  recollections  about  the  Warm  Springs. 
Six  miles  beyond  the  Warm,  we  came  to  the  Hot 
Springs.  "  I  will  get  out  here,"  says  the  invalid. 

"1  will  leave  this  place  as  quickly  as  posssible," 
says  the  man  of  pleasure,  "  for  I  will  not  look  at  the 
halt  and  the  lame. " 

These  springs  are  much  celebrated  for  their  hot 
baths,  so  beneficial  for  persons  far  gone  in  strength, 
and  deeply  affected  with  rheumatic  affections,  con- 
tusions, broken  limbs,  &c.  Many  wonderful  cures 
are  performed  here.  The  days  of  many  a  poor  man 
have  been  lengthened,  if  not  made  happier,  by  re- 
covery. 

I  saw  a  United  States  Senator  who  had  left  Wash- 
ington a  few  weeks  before  in  a  very  low  state  of 
health ;  he  was  now  convalescent,  and  able  to  bear 
the  fatigues  of  a  journey  home  to  the  South. 


V 
HOT    SPRING.  21 

The  piazzas  of  the  hotels  were  filled  with  inva- 
lids, like  those  in  front  of  a  marine  hospital  I  have 
somewhere  seen.  Some  were  limping;  some  were 
on  crutches ;  and  some  were  wheeled  about  like 
children. 

At  a  little  distance,  walking  in  the  shade  of  the 
trees,  we  observed  a  very  infirm  old  gentleman  on 
the  arm  of  a  young  lady;  some  faithful  daughter, 
we  imagined,  tending  on  an  aged  parent. 

There  are  several  baths  here  of  different  temper- 
atures— the  spout-bath,  the  boiler,  and  the  pleasure- 
bath. 

The  proprietor,  a  physician,  is  said  to  be  a  hu- 
mane and  attentive  person,  and  is  making  extensive 
improvements  each  year. 

We  stopped  once  more  on  our  road,  at  Calla- 
ghan's,  a  great  breakfasting  house,  thirteen  miles 
this  side  of  the  White  Sulphur,  at  the  interjunction 
of  several  mail  routes.  We  were  here  very  hospi- 
tably entertained  by  the  facetious  and  obliging  host, 
who  never  differs  in  opinion  with  his  guests  on  any 
subject  that's  not  fare.  Dennis  Callaghan,  the  father 
of  the  present  proprietor,  was  immortalized  by  the 
author  of  Westward  Ho !  long  since. 

"On  what  side  of  the  question  are  you,  Mr.  Calla- 
ghan?" said  one  of  us  to  him  at  parting. 


*  _ 

22  WHITE    SULPHUR   SPRINGS. 

"  Why,  sir,"  said  he,  "  I  don't  like  to  diner — Pm 
sure  we  don't — but  how  do  you  stand  ? " 

""Why,"  said  my  friend,  "I  am  Van  Buren — 
Anti-Sub-treasury — Administration — Ultra- Whig." 

"Well,"  said  he,  "Mr.  Stranger,  I  am  exactly 
where  you  are.'* 

In  a  few  hours  more,  we  came  within  the  precincts 
of  the  White  Sulphur. 


23 


\  . 

CHAP.  II. 

*  * 

THE  WHITE  SULPHUR — TOPOGRAPHY  OF  THE  PLACE. 


THE  white  Sulphur  Spring  is  in  the  county  of  Green- 
briar,  western  Virginia/  embosomed  in  a  beautiful 
valley,  where  the  mountains  recede  on  a  sudden 
forming  at  first  an  irregular  opening,  which  at  c 
little  distance  widens  into  an  extensive  plain.  The 
main  road  runs  directly  through  the  valley,  passing 
on  one  side  the  enclosure  containing  the  spring  ant 
the  principal  improvements  ;  then  crossing  the  Ion; 
meadows  and  finally  losing  itself  in  the  shade  of  th« 
mountain  at  the  further  end. 

When  we(  arrived  at  the  springs,  the  company 
were  going  to  dinner,  and  all  the  walks  and  avenues 
leading  from  the  different  cabins  were  streaming 
with  lively  forms.  A  band  of  music  was  playing 
gaily  in  the  portico  of  the  dining  hall ;  and  the  whole 
face  of  things  had  the  look  of  enchantment.  It  seem- 
ed to  us  travellers,  arriving  at  such  a  time,  as  if  the 
inhabitants  of  some  fairy  isle  were  turning  out  to 
welcome  the  coming  of  expected  strangers. 


24  WHITE    SULPHUR    SPRINGS. 

& 

Our  coach  door  was  opened  by  Major  Anderson, 
who  assigned  to  us  our  respective  quarters.  The  la- 
dies of  the  party  were  escorted  to  Paradise  Row,  and 
the  single  gentlemen  were  sent  some  to  Spring  Row 
and  others  to  Wolf  Row,' which  latter  place  is  re- 
served for  bachelors,  amateurs  and  philosophers. 

The  grounds  are  laid  out  very  prettily  with  gra- 
vel walks  intersecting  the  green  lawns,  and  the  area 
is  bordered  on  all  sides  by  rows  of  neat  cabins,  some 
of  them  of  a  very  attractive  appearance..  The  whole 
looks  like  a  well  laid  out  little  town.  A  countryman 
from  the  west,  not  long  since,  in  passing  by  the 
springs  late  in  October,  when  .the  place  was  quite 
deserted,  was  heard  to  remark,  that  he  saw  a  great 
many  houses  in"  the  village,,  but  very  few  people. 

On  the  front  square  stands  a  large  frame  building 
containing  the  dining  room,  the  public  room,  and  the 
offices.  A  portico  runs  the  whole  length  of  this  edi- 
-fice,  forming  a  fine  promenade  in  wet  weather. 
Near  to  this  in  a  similar  building  is  the  ball  room, 
with  lodging  apartments  above. 

Immediately  in  front  of  these,  on  the  acclivity  of 
the  hill,  which  overlooks  the  plain,  and  sweeping 
round  before  you,  is  Alabama  Row,  which  extends 
as  far  as  the  large  centre  building,  where  it  is  joined 
by  Paradise  Row,  which  has  a  similar  range.  The 
cabins  which  form  these  ranges  are  all  built  of  brick, 


•*'*• 


V     -fev  •  -W;.-  '  V^C    . 

WHITE    SULPHUR    SPRINGS.  25 

'  "i  ~;"~V 

with  little  piazzas  in  front.  Carolina  Row,  fronts 
the  walk,  from  the  spring,  beyond  which  are,  Balti- 
more— Virginia — and  Georgia  Rows.  There  are 
besides  many  beautiful  cabins  ^on  various  parts  of 
the  premises,  which  are  reserved  for  private  fami- 
lies, who  spend  their  summers  here. 

A  new  row  of  six  ornamental  veranda  cottages 
has  lately  been  erected  on  a  line  with  Paradise  Row, 
and  four  large  brick  buildings  on  the  hill  beyond, 
the  latter  being  occupied  by  Carolineans.  The  ac- 
commodations are  at  present  sufficient  for  six  hun- 
dred persons.  A  large  hotel  is  about  being  erected 
in  the  course  of  another  year,  which  will  accommo- 
date several  hundred  more.  At  present  each  fami- 
ly or  party  reside  in  a  separate  cabin,  being  lords 
of  their  own  castles  for  the  time  being,  which  is  per- 
haps the  most  preferable  mode  of  living. 

The  noble  fountain  is  immediately  in  front  of 
Spring  Row,  and  can  be  seen  from  any  part  of  the 
square.  It  is  ornamented  by  a  handsome  dome, 
supported  by  twelve  pillars,  which  is  surmounted  by 
a  statue  representing  Hygeia.  There  are  circular 
seats  beneath,  and  the  area  is  roomy  enough  for 
near  one  hundred  persons  seated  and  standing. 

The  water  flows  in  an  octagonical  basin  about 
three  feet  and  a  half  in  depth,  and  gushes  from  an 
aperture  in  the  white  rocks,  which  line  the  sides  of 
3 


26  WHITE    SULPHUE    SPRINGS. 

the  reservoir.  It  sparkles  in  the  glass  like  liquid 
crystal,  and  it  gives  the  frame  of  the  invalid  new 
vigor  at  every  draught. 

It  has  a  very  strong  smell  of  sulphur,  and  at  first 
is  not  so  pleasant  to  the  taste,  but  after  a  few  days 
this  is  not  perceptible  by  the  visitor,  and  he  becomes 
very  fond  of  it,  desiring  no  other  beverage.  It  cures 
almost  every  disease ;  for '  affections  of  the  liver — 
and  for  dyspepsia  of  whatever  kind,  it  is  peculiarly 
recommended.  It  produces  the  most  enviable  ap- 
petites— brings  colour  to  the  cheek — exhilirates  the 
spirits,  and  lengthens  life. 

The  stream  from  the  spring  is  veiy  copious,  and 
supplies  the  bath  houses  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 
The  old  bath  house  has  been  removed  within  the 
last  year,  and  a  large  and  improved  one,  with  dress- 
ing rooms  and  other  conveniences,  has  been  erected 
on  the  same  site. 

Thus  much  for  the  topography  of  the  White  Sul- 
phur ;  we  will  leave  the  reader  at  the  spring/  pro- 
mising to  chronicle  in  coming  chapters,  the  amuse- 
ments and  pleasures  of  this  delightful  place. 


27 


CHAP.   III. 

WHITE    SULPHUR AMUSEMENTS FIRST   WHITE    SETTLER- 
BAREGES,    &C.    &C. 


THE  season  at  the  White  Sulphur  commences  early 
in  June;  the  most  fashionable  period  is  from  the 
middle  of  July,  till  the  second  week  in  September, 
and  during  the  month  of  August  the  gaiety  is  at  its 
height. 

It  was  now  late  in  July,  and  the  place  was  throng- 
ing with  visitors ;  numbers  daily  not  being  able  to 
gain  admittance,  were  obliged  to  quarter  in  the 
neighbourhood,  or  turn  off  to  some  of  the  other 
springs,  and  there  remain  until  they  could  be  accom- 
modated. 

The  amusements  here  are  various,  and  the  days 
go  by  very  rapidly  to  those  who  are  determined  to 
enjoy  themselves. 

In  the  morning  before  breakfast,  the  spring  is  the 
first  resort,  by  all  who  wish  to  drink  the  waters  and 
exchange  the  salutations  of  the  day.  This  is  an  ex- 
citing time,  and  for  one  hour,  the  whole  area  around 


28  WHITE    SULPHITE    SPRINGS* 

the  spring  is  crowded  with  the  old,  the  young,  the 
gay,  and  the  invalid. 

At  eight  o'clock  comes  breakfast,  when  the  tables 
are  plentifully  supplied  with  the  best  bread  ever 
baked,  and  all  the  other  necessaries  to  anticipate  the 
finest  appetites. 

After  breakfast,  the  company  disperse  in  various 
ways — some  to  their  cabins,  to  prepare  for  visitors, 
and  for  visiting — some  to  the  drawing-room  for  mu- 
sic— some  ride  on  horseback — some  walk — parties 
are  arranged  for  a  dinner  at  Crow's — a  pic^hic  on 
theGreenbriar,or  an  excursion  to  Lewisburg.  There 
is  a  very  good  store,  where  every  thing  can  be 
bought — and  many  go  shopping.  Gentlemen  who 
have  nothing  else  to  do,  amuse  themselves  at  whist 
— some  play  billiards — others  exercise  at  nine  pins, 
or  with  the  gymnasium — and  the  hunters  prepare 
for  a  chase,  and  so  passes  the  day  until  dinner  time, 
all  having  made  another  visit  to  the  spring  at  twelve 
o'clock,  which  is  called  the  lounging  hour.  For  the 
half  hour  preceding  dinner,  the  band  of  music  is  per- 
forming in  the  portico. 

Dinner — this  is  an  important  period  to  a  great 
many,  the  twenty  sheep  and  beef  slaughtered  for 
that  day  are  demolished  with  great  sangfroid,  and 
a  feed  servant  will  place  before  you  a  fried  chicken 
or  some  other  dainty  dish,  which  you  will  find  very 


AMUSEMENTS.  29 

acceptable  after  six  hours  abstinence,  particulary  if 
you  have  been  down  to  the  spring. 

There  are  twelve  tables,  each  large  enough  for 
fifty  persons  or  more,  on  a  squeeze,  and  all  the  plates 
being  labelled,  there  is  no  confusion  in  coming  to 
dinner  about  finding  your  place.  There  is  no  ne- 
cessity for  being  in  a  hurry,  or  getting  into  a  pas- 
sion— a  little  patience,  and  you  will  not  fail  to  be 
satisfied. 

The  desert  is  abundant  and  very  good,  and  but 
for  the  hurry  and  flurry  of  the  servants,  you  get 
through  this  meal  very  good  humouredly.  Little  or 
no  wine  is  drunk  at  dinner,  one  of  the  beneficial  re- 
sults of  the  water,  and  a  very  conclusive  one.  After 
dinner,  the  ladies  generally  repair  to  the  drawing- 
room,  where  an  hour  or  two  is  whiled  away  in 
conversation  and  music:  there  are  always  a  great 
many  ladies  here  who  perform  well,  and  this  is  one 
of  the  pleasantest  hours  of  the  day.  Many  who  like 
the  Spanish  fashion,  sleep  an  hour  or  two,  after  din- 
ner— then  at  five  o'clock,  the  equipages  are  brought 
out  for  those  who  may  have  them  and  like  an  even- 
ing drive,  on  the  sweet  spring  road,  or  to  the  Green- 
briar  bridge.  A  third  general  visiting  is  made  to 
the  spring  during  the  evening,  and  from  then  until 
tea  time,  and  till  twilight,  the  whole  grounds  are  in- 
terspersed with  company,  promenading,  laughing, 
3* 


• 

*  . 

30  WHITE   SULPHUR   SPRING S~ 

chatting,  and  many  anticipating  the  coming  plea- 
sures of  the  ball. 

The  ball  room  is  open  every  evening  on  week 
days,  for  a  dance.  It  is  a  neat  and  appropriate 
room,  and  has  been  much  enlarged  of  late.  It  is 
lighted  by  three  handsome  chandeliers,  with  a  fine 
orchestra  in  the  centre,  and  the  music,  a  Baltimore 
band,  is  very  fine.  A  piano  is  also  part  of  the  fur- 
niture, this  is  made  the  drawing-room  during  the  day. 
After  a  great  deal  of  dancing  and  waltzing,  the 
company  generally  break  up  by  eleven  o'clock,  and 
so  ends  a  day  at  the  White  Sulphur. 

On  rainy  days,  ladies  can  have  their  meals  fur- 
nished them  very  comfortably  in  their  own  cabins, 
though  many  of  them  prefer  to  come  trippingly  to 
the  dining  hall. 

Sunday  is  religiously  observed  here ;  divine  ser- 
vice is  performed,  and  the  attendance  on  such  occa- 
sions is  always  large  and  respectable. 

I  joined  the  venerable  proprietor  of  the  Springs 
in  one  of  his  customary  morning  walks  over  the 
estate :  a  gentleman  of  the  old  school,  and  one 
whose  urbane  manner  and  kindness  of  heart,  have 
gained  him  the  respect  and  esteem  of  all  who  make 
his  acquaintance.  We  walked  through  several 
large  cultivated  fields,  some  filled  with  vegetables, 
of  which  a  great  supply  is  requisite  here,  and  others 


FIRST    SETTLER.  31 

were  waving  with  ripening  corn  and  wheat.  Pass- 
ing through  several  green  meadows  more  than  a 
mile  in  length,  we  came  round  by  the  stabling  es- 
tablishment, where  over  four  hundred  horses  were 
well  provided  for.  In  an  adjoining  field  were  seve- 
ral blooded  colts,  and  cattle  of  the  Durham  breed — 
the  latter  a  present  from  Mr.  Clay.  The  meadows 
and  grounds  are  watered  by  many  streams,  and 
several  sulphur  springs  rise  in  various  parts  of  the 
land.  Mountains  extend  all  around,  forming  a  fine 
defence  against  the  storms  and  snows  of  winter ; 
and  abound  in  deer,  pheasants  and  other  game. 

The  first  white  settler  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
was  a  crazy  man,  who  wandering  from  some  of  the 
lower  counties,  here  fixed  his  abode  in  one  of  the 
rocky  glens  on  Howard's  Creek.  The  Indians  hav- 
ing a  superstitious  dread  of  persons  in  his  situation, 
were  afraid  to  molest  him,  and  even  frequently  sup- 
plied him  with  food.  In  the  course  of  time  other 
adventurers  came — the  Indians  were  driven  off,  and 
the  country  in  the  adjoining  counties  has  been 
rapidly  settling  ever  since. 

The  valuable  qualities  of  the  waters  of  the  White 
Sulphur  Springs,  first  became  known  about  twenty- 
five  years  ago,  and  its  celebrity  has  been  increasing 
ever  since,  until  it  has  become  a  resort  for  persons 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  Its  beneficial  qualities 


t« 

•4       •  "X 

^».    »  • 


32  WHITE    SULPHUR    SPRIGS. 

are  undeniably  good  for  persons  in  all  conditions  of 

health. 

<» 

A  Spanish  gentleman  who  was  here  during  the 
past  summer,  and  who  had  travelled  a  great  deal, 
and  visited  -all  the  springs  on  the  continent  and  in 
Germany,  gave  these  waters  the  preference  over 

all  others.      * 

^* 

The  notice  of  persons  was  first  attracted  to  this 
spring  by  the  quantities  of  deer  which  came  to 
drink  at  the  licks  round  about,  formed  by  the  over- 
flowing of  the  waters  from  the  spring,  which  have 
since  been  drained  off. 

The  discovery  of  the  celebrated  Springs  of  Bare- 
ges, among  the  Pyrenees,  is  attributed  to  a  sheep, 
which  was  observed  to  stray  from  its  flock,  and  di- 
rect its  course  towards  them;  when  the  people  of 
the  country  soon  became  acquainted  with  their  effi- 
cacy. An  English  writer  thus  speaks  of  these 
springs,  whose  waters  are  said  in  many  respects  to 
be  analagous  to  those  of  the  White  Sulphur: 

"Bareges  was  not  much  frequented  until  Mad- 
ame de  Maintenon  being  at  Bagneres,  on  account 
of  the  health  of  the  young  Duke  de  Maine,  and 
hearing  of  Bareges,  took  the  Duke  thither.  Since 
that,  they  have  been  greatly  resorted  to  by  invalids 
from  all  parts,  especially  by  wounded  military 
men. 


BAREGES.  33 


"  The  water  is  perfectly  clear,  and  does  not  taste 
strongly  of  sulphur,  but  the  smell  is  very  decided. 
It  is  mineralized  principally  by  the  sulphuret  of  so- 
dium, but  also  contains  carbonate  of  soda,  a  small 
quantity  of  sulphate  and  muriate  of  soda,  azote,  sul- 
pheretted  hydrogen  and  glairine  or  animal  matter. 
Taken  internally,  it  often  produces,  like  other  sul-  •. 
phurous  waters,  a  'degree  of  excitation,  marked  by 
acceleration  of  the  pulse,  perspiration  more  or  less 
abundant,  increased  appetite,  and  sometimes  sleep- 
lessness. It  is  not  in  general  purgative,  and  even 
sometimes  induces  constipation,  particularly  when 
exclusively  used  for  bathing — but  is  diuretic,  dia- 
phoretic and  expectorant.  By  its  local  or  general 
stimulating  properties,-  it  cleanses  foul  ulcers,  les- 
sens the  induration  of  callous  and  fistulous  sores — 
promotes  the  exfoliation  of  carious  portions  of  bone 
and  cicatrization.  It  is  also  highly  efficacious  in 
allaying  bony  pains,  whether  of  a  rheumatic  nature, 
or  arising  from  the  wounds — in  remedying  the  stiff- 
ness and  immobility  of  joints,  when  these  symptoms 
depend  upon  tumefaction  of  the  soft  parts — in  hem- 
orrhoidal  affections,  jaundice  and  chronic  disorders, 
and  especially  long  standing  dysentery — in  chronic 
syphilitic  diseases,  and  those  resulting  from  the  use 
of  mercury,  dyspepsia,  &c.  The  season  begins  on 
the  first  of  June,  and  terminates  in  September." 

-.    '  :   "V 


34  WHITE   SULPHUR   SPRINGS. 

m 

A  young  officer  of  the  army,  now  stationed  at 
Washington,  remained  the  whole  of  the  last  season 
among  the  springs,  the  most  of  which  tune  was 
spent  at  the  White  Sulphur,  whither  he  had  gone 
in  a  very  feeble  state  of  health,  scarcely  having  the 
use  of  his  limbs,  and  no  one  would  now  recognize 
the  pale  suffering  invalid  of  that  day,  in  his  present 
flushed  appearance  and  stout  manly  form. 

The  temperature  of  the  White  Sulphur  water  is 
60  degrees  Farenheit,  and  is  the  same  during  win- 
ter and  summer.  It  is  composed  of  the  following 
ingredients: 

Sulphate  of  Soda. 

Sulphate  of  lime. 

Sulphate  of  magnesia. 

Carbonate  of  lime. 

.Carbonate  of  magnesia. 

Chloride  of  Sodium. 

Chloride  of  Calcium. 

Pa.  Oxyde  of  Iron. 

Sulp.  Hydn.  of  Sodium. 

Phosphate  of  lime. 

Organic  matter. 

Precipitated  sulphur. 

Gases. " 

Sulph.  Hydrogen. 

Carbonic  acid. 

Nitrogen. 

Oxygen. 


WHITE  SULPHUR.  35. 

Such  a  place  as  the  White  Sulphur  so  well  fash- 
ioned and  provided  for  by  nature,  cannot  fail  to  be- 
come, in  a  very  few  years,  the  resort  of  thousands 
of  persons,  in  search  of  health,  and  the  head  quar- 
ters of  fashion,  when  the  first  people  of  the  land  will 
gather  from  all  quarters,  and  meet  to  reciprocate 
mutual  good  feelings.  In  less  than  forty  months 
from  the  present  time,  it  may  be  predicted,  a  rail- 
road will  sweep  by,  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
Warm  Spring  Mountain,  and  the  inhabitants  of 
Union,  will  find  it  but  three  days  travel  to  New  York, 
which  less  than  twenty  years  since,  was  the  journey 
of  a  month. 

The  receipts  at  these  springs  are  now  very  large, 
but  the  expenses  are  great.  A  considerable  amount 
is  annually  appropriated  for  improvements,  and  by 
the  summer  of  1840,  when  the  projected  ones  shall 
be  completed,  there  will  be  accommodations  for 
more  than  twelve  hundred  persons. 

There  is  one  great  comfort  here,  in  the  good  bed- 
ding and  clean  white  sheets,  not  always  to  be  had 
at  watering  places.  The  cabins  are  neat,  small, 
but  comfortable,  generally  having  two  rooms,  many 
of  them  four. 

Do  you  want  accommodations  for  some  of  your 
friends  about  to  arrive,  you  call  that  stout  active 
little  man  whom  you  see  brushing  across  the  plain 


*  .  » 

*i 


*« 

36  WHITE    SULPHUR    SPRINGS. 

T-  '  ?' 

in  such  a  hurry.  He  is  always  engaged,  but  ever 
.at  your  service.  Discarding  the  use  of  pencil  or  pa- 
per, he  has  figured  in  his  head  the  names  and  num- 
ber of  the  occupants  in  every  cabin,  their  size  and 
condition.  He  can  tell  you,  who  is  coming,  at  what 
time  they  will  arrive,  and  when  they  will  start. 

He  is  the  person  who  assigns  the  visitors  to  their 
respective  quarters.  He  is,  for  the  time  being,  the 
chief  ruler  and  prime  minister  of  the  interior.  They 
call  him  the  Metternich  of  the  Mountains.  Crichton 
and  Willard  have  both  had  their  day,  and  Anderson 
is  now  in  the  full  tide  of  his  fame. 

The  White  Sulphur  Hotel,  is  within  a  few  hun- 
dred yards  of  the  springs,  where  accommodations 
can  be  had  for  over  one  hundred  persons ;  it  is  ge- 
nerally filled  during  the  crowded  season,  and  is  open 
during  the  year  whon  the  other  establishment  is 
closed.  The  proprietor  is  an  attentive  and  gentle- 
manly person,  and  takes  good  care  of  his  guests. 


yr- 


<* 

• 

•**    >•     ' 


37 


CHAP.  IV. 

'  j£*  «    •> 

WH1TH    SULPHUR  —  SOCIETY  -  PIC 


IT  is  advisable  for  all  who  come  to  the  springs,  to 
remain  any  time,  to  bring  with  them  some  amusing 
and  entertaining  books ;  they  will  find  them  very 
pleasant  companions  of  a  dull  hour,  during  the  heat 
of  the  day,  and  in  rainy  weather.  The  essays  of 
Charles  Lamb,  is  an  admirable  book  for  a  watering 
place,  many  of  his  happiest  thoughts  being  here 
illustrated. 

Ct 

It  is  now  the  middle  of  August,  and  the  White 
Sulphur  and  the  whole  neighbourhood  is  thronging 
with  company.  There  is  life  in  every  breeze,  and  a 
continual  hum  of  joy  and  merriment  pervading  the 
place. 

You  are  seated  in  front  of  your  cabin  in  Carolina 
row,  with  the  whole  panorama  of  passing  events  be- 
fore you.  You  hear  the  strunning  of  many  guitars^ 
and  the  sound  of  flutes  from  various  quarters — you 
listen  again,  to  the  screaming  of  some  happy  child- 

* 


t  •  •-. 

C8  TFHITB    SULP2tta    PAPERS. 

ren,  chasing  a  young  fawn  over  the  green;  inno- 
cence sporting  with  nature — see  the  young  creature, 
he  has  outstripped  his  pursuers,  and  has  stopped  for 
a  moment  to  strain  his  wild  eyes  in  a  longing  look 
at  his  native  hills ;  but  they  are  after  him  again. 
Yonder  comes  the  cake-man,  the  children's  friend ; 
he  is  punctual  to  the  hour,  and  is  expected  daily  by 
the  inhabitants  of  every  row;  there  is  music  in  the 
creaking  of  his  tray  to  many  .After  him,  in  import- 
ance, in  the  same  line,  is  that  little  boy  with  the 
straw  hat,  he  brings  the  sugar  maple  from  the  moun- 
tains, and  from  near  the  sweet  springs.  There  is  a 
man  with  an  armful  of  branches  and  cedar  from  the 
xroods — he  has  laid  them  down  before  a  cabin  in 
Virginia  row,  and  they  are  now  decorating  the  piaz- 
za, bidding  defiance  to  the  hottest  sun.  The  benches 
under  the  large  shady  elms  in  the  grove,  are  filled 
with  gentlemen  talking  politics,  &nd  discussing  com- 
ing elections— comparing  great  men — or  telling 
anecdotes — there  is  much  to  be  learned  at  this  place. 
There  was  one  gentleman  here — one  of  the  great 
men  of  our  country,  who  had  been  a  senator,  and 
governor  of  his  native  state ;  mt>ming  and  evening 
\r herever  he  would  take  his  seat,  a  large  number 
irould  gather  around  him,  young  and  old,  and  talent 
and  genius  would  listen  in  silence,  while  in  the  most 
fascinating  manner,  he  would  discuss  the  first  prJn- 


PASSING    EVENTS.  39 

ciples  of  government,  law,  society,  politics  and  cha- 
racter, and  his  frequent  flashes  of  wit,  would  make 
the  whole  area  ring  with  delight. 

There  is  an  arrival.  It  must  be  a  family  from  the 
south,  from  the  extent  of  the  train,  and  the  number 
of  horses  and  vehicles.  First  comes  the  baggage 
wagon — then  a  young  gentleman  on  horseback — 
then  follows  the  diligence,  containing  the  children- 
nurses — and  bandboxes — after  that  comes  a  close 
carriage,  with  the  ladies  of  the  family — then  the  gen- 
tleman himself  riding  after — and  the  calvacade  is 
brought  up  by  several  other  vehicles  and  servants, 
as  outriders. 

The  opening  of  the  mail — a  scramble  for  letters 
and  papers — expectation  on  tiptoe  for  the  news—- 
arrival of  the  Great  Western — fourteen  days  from 
Liverpool — coronation  of  Queen  Victoria — Wash- 
ington deserted — President  at  the  springs,  and  the 
citizens  at  Piney  Point. 

A  lady  is  standing  in  her  cabin  door,  a  gentleman 
approaches,  and  holds  up  a  letter  bearing  her  ad- 
tiress,  her  eye  sparkles  with  joy,  she  runs  to  meet  it 
— and  retires,  forgetting  pleasure  and  gaiety  for 
awhile,  to  read  a  few  lines  "from  some  one  at  home." 
The  better  affections  of  the  heart,  and  many  of  the 
softer  passions  of  our  nature  are  called  into  play,  on 
the  receipt  of  a  letter  from  home,  in  a  strange  place. 


40  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

There  are  several  resident  physicians  here ;  also 
transient  artists — dentists — and  phrenologists — and 
a  corn-doctor's  card,  has  been  posted  up  for  several 
days.  We  have  two  or  three  itinerant  jewellers 
also — they  have  been .  displaying  their  finery  and 
tinsel  spread  out  in  the  square,  and  their  tables  have 
been  surrounded  all  day  with  nurses  and  children, 
and  all  who  can  satisfy  themselves,  with  gilt  ear  or- 
naments and  finger  rings. 

The  president  of  the  United  States. is  here,  and 
many  other  distinguished  persons.  Ladies  of  fashion 
and  belles  from  the  principal  cities — foreign  min- 
isters— members  of  the  cabinet,  senators — and  re- 
presentatives, prominent  judges — officers  of  the 
army  and  navy,  and  polished  private  gentlemen,  all 
combining  to  make  the  present  company,  as  elegant 
and  select  as  any  party  ever  assembled  at  a  water- 
ing place. 

There  is^great  attraction  at  the  ball-room  at  pre- 
sent, ,and  it  is  brilliantly  attended  every  evening  by 
the  light  and  gay  hearted.  Dignity,  and  power* 
and  beauty,  and  grace,  and  wit,  make  up  the  com- 
pany, mingling  their  qualities  and  their  fascinations. 

The  afternoons  now  are  very  fine  for  walks — 
there  are  several  very  pretty  ones,  in  and  around 
the  neighbourhood — parties  and  couples  are  straying 
in  the  beautiful  paths  of  the  mastin  wood,  in  the 


41 

rear  of  the  hotel,  and  some  are  extending  their 
steps  as  far  as  Lover's  Retreat,  a  romantic  spot,  in 
the  same  direction. 

On  that  part  of  the  sweet  spring  road  which  winds 
around  by  the  Colonade,  is  another  very  pretty 
walk,  with  a  fine  prospect  from  the  brow  of  the  hill. 
Pursuing  this  path,  stepping  over  little  rivulets 
which  meander  through  the  glades  of  this  beautiful 
country,  you  come  to  a  little  white  cottage  where 
small  parties  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  are  refreshing 
themselves  with  ice-cream  and  niceties  that  even 
Henrion  would  approve  of. 

If  each  individual  in  the  society  at  a  place  like 
this,  where  it  is  generally  so  very  good,  would  only 
feel  convinced  how  much  his  efforts,  however  small, 
might  contribute  to  the  general  pleasure — and  if  all 
would  recollect  that  they  are  strangers  on  the  same 
ground,  equally  ent'tled  to  each  other's  notice  and 
attention,  as  sojourners  from  home,  without  refer- 
ence to  their  time  of  arrival — there  would  be  more 
frequent  intercourse  of  an  agreeable  and  ultimate 
nature  among  various  persons,  and  the  comfort  and 
enjoyment  of  each  would  be  mutually  promoted. 

The  general  interchange  of  civilities  exist  to  a 

greater  degree  among  the  company  at  these  springs 

than  at  those  of  the  North;  which  doubtless  results 

from  the  isolated  position  of  the  former,  the  ma- 

4* 

*V;V 


42  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

. 

jority  of  southern  people  who  attend  them,  and  the 
natural  propensity  of  independent  persons  who  re- 
main together  any  length  of  time  to  be  sociable. 
In  the  course  of  a  few  years,  the  tide  of  travel  and 
fashion  will  flow  this  way,- and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  neither  parvenu  pride  nor  unnecessary  etiquette 
•will  destroy  the  social  Ix-autics  of  the  old  regime. 
Not  that  there  is  much  fear  of  it  at  present. 

This  is  the  hour  for  drives  and  excursions.  You 
meet  carriages  and — (when  is  a  carriage  not  a  car- 
riage? why,  when  it 's  a  wagon,  to  be  sure,  says 
some  one  at  my  elbow) — vehicles  of  all  descrip- 
tions, returning  from  pic  nics — and  going  out  with 
those  desirous  to  meet  the  evening  stages,  to  wel- 
come friends  in  advance,  and  to  kiss  hands  to  some 
lady  passenger  they  may  know  in  passing,  and 
bring  home  wild  flowers. 

You  sever  thoroughly  understand  the  philosophy 
of  the  word  pic  nic,  until  you  come  here.  Ask  a  lady 
who  has  spent  a  summer  at  the  White  Sulphur  to  tell 
you.  We  had  something  of  the  kind  a  few  days  since 
at  the  Greenbriar,  about  five  miles  from  the  springs, 
but  there  were  no  ladies  present — it  was  altogether 
a  gentleman's  affair.  Jt  originated  with  the  dele- 
gate from  Florida,  and  some  others,  who  invited 
the  company  to  the  number  of  nearly  a  hundred, 
among  whom  were  the  President,  the  Secretary  of 


AMUSEMENTS.  43 

- 

War,  and  many  distinguished  members  of  Congress 
and  others. 

The  party  had  all  assembled  before  two  o'clock 
at  the  brick  tavern  at  the  bridge.  Parties  on  pic 
nic  excursions  generally*  carry  their  own  delicacies. 
and  baskets,  but  this  was  to  be  an  uncommon  affair. 
We  found  every  thing  amply  provided  for  us,  as  it 
were  by  invisible  hands.  Invisible  hands  had  got 
ready  the  most  tempting  and  cooling  beverages  for 
the  dusty,  thirsty  guests,  (it  was  a  very  dusty  day) 
and  invisible  hands  had  prepared,  under  a  large 
green  arbor  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  a  most 
magnificent  entertainment.  And  then  with  myrtle 
leaves  for  a  canopy  over  our  devoted  heads,  we  all 
sat  down  with  smiling  faces  to  do  justice  to  the 
delicacies  spread  before  us. 

We  had  all  the  luxuries  of  the  mountains,  the 
farm-yard,  and  the  streams.  The  noisy  servants  at 
our  backs  were  duelling  with  champagne  corks  all 
the  time,  and  the  table  was  sparkling  with  wine  and 
wit.  .  t 

At  this  stage  of  the  proceedings,  there  was  a  sud- 
den cessation  of  knives  and  forks  for  a  moment,  the 
band  striking  up  a  well-known  lively  air,  and  all 
eyes  were  turned  towards  the  host,  who  appeared 
leading  in  a  sorry-looking  gentleman  who  had  just 
arrived.  He  had  come  late,  and  gave  as  his  excuse 


44  WHITB     SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

>' 

that  the  ladies  at  the  springs  finding  themselves 
deserted  by  the  beaux,  had  seized  on  him,  and  he 
had  just  made  his  escape  from  paradise  row,  and 
covered  with  dust  and  glory,  had  come  to  join  our 
party.  We  were  regaled  with  a  fine  refreshing 
breeze  from  the  mountain  during  the  whole  time, 
and  the  day  went  by  most  agreeably., 

We  all  came  home  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  even- 
ing, passing  through  the  enchanting  vallies,  and 
arrived  in  time  to  meet  the  ladies  in  the  ball-room, 
and  give  an  account  of  our  absence  during  the  day. 


45 


CHAP.  V. 


RIDE   T<l   THE   SWEET   SPRINGS SWEET   SPRINGS.    ,..  _. 

*> 


ONE  fine  racy  morning,  before  sunrise,  throwing  our 
cloaks  over  our  shoulders,  we  rolled  off  in  an  open 
carriage  to  make  a  visit  to  the  Sweet  Springs,  and 
enjoy  the  ride  before  breakfast.  We  left  the  White 
Sulphur  long  before  the  inhabitants  of  Paradise  row 
were  stirring,  and  in  a  little  while,  our  dapples  were 
winding  their  way  through  some  of  the  finest  scene- 
ry, romance  or  poetry  had  ever  pictured. 

Over  a  smooth  beaten  road,  which  seemed  to  Have 
been  carved  through  the  mountains,  like  the  pass  of 
mount  Athos,  we  went  on,  with  woodland  steeps  on 
each  side  of  us,  and  afar  for  miles  in  front,  we  had 
a  refreshing  perspective  in  the  high  green  hills.  Oc- 
casionally in  coming  to  a  turn  in  the  road,  some  new 
wonder  would  open  before  us.  At  one  time  we 
were  bordered  on  each  hand  by  a  rocky  palisade 
of  some  hundred  feet  in  height.  And  again  where 
the  road  was  more  narrow,  we  passed  under  natural 
arbors,  formed  by  the  meeting  of  the  tops  of  the 


46  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

bending  trees  from  each  side  of  the  way,  and  where 
the  laurel  was  twining  its  own  garlands  on  the 
branches.  „ 

My  companion,  Majpr  V ,  had  brought  with 

him  a  copy  of  Childe  Harold,  which  was  opened, 
and  the  finest  passages  sought  out.  "He  soon  closed 
the  book  again,  however,  saying  as  we  both  thought, 
that  we  had  poetry  enough  around  us. 

A  ride  of  ten  miles  brought  us  to  Crow's,  witli  a 
fine  relish  for  breakfast,  or  any  thing  else  that  might 
be  offered  us. 

This  is  the  place,  wherfe  so  many  excursions  are 
made  from  the  springs,  for  dinner  parties  and  pic- 
nics. The  tavern  stands  on  the  corner  of  the  road 
at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  and  the  sign  board  swings 
out  in  front,  after  the  manner  of  that  of  Nicholas 
Vedder  of  old,  and  many  a  Rip  Van  Winkle  can  be 
found  in  the  whereabouts,  who  knows  the  legends  of 
the  neighbourhood. 

We  entered  the  white  pailings  through  a  wicket 
gate,  and  were  met  on  the  piazza  by  Mr.  Crow,  quite 
portly,  and  good  natured  in  appearance,  somewhat 
of  a  politician,  besides  being  a  colonel.  He  promised 
us  all  we  required,  and  brought  us  a  frozen  imperial 
to  refresh  us. 

There  is  not  a  tavern  keeper,  or  a  stage  owner,  in 
all  Western  Virginia — or  a  great  wood  chopper  who 


SCENERY.  47 

has  not  some  military  title — General,  is  very  high*—? 
only  the  real  militia  men  take  that — Colonel  predo- 
minates— and  any  one  who  kills  a  rattlesnake  is 
made  a  major  on  the  spot. 

We  here  met  the  President  who  had  rode  over 
on  horseback  accompanied  by  one  of  his  sons,  to 
breakfast.  Several  travellers  in  the  house,  on  learn- 
ing that  he  v/as  the  chief  magistrate,  came  in  and 
made  themselves  known  to  him  and  were  courte- 
ously received, 

Chateaubriand,  in  describing  his  visit  to  the  first 
president  of  the  United  Stales,  remarks  on  the  sim- 
pleness  of  his  retired  manner — and  the  plainness  of 
every  thing  around  him,  and  "wonders '  how  long 
such  beauties  of  republicanism  will  last. 

We  fell  into  a  similar  train  of  thought  for  a -mo- 
ment, and  were  consoled  with  the  grateful  reflection, 
that  the  purity  of  our  institutions,  in  one  particular 
at  least,  had  existed,  for  half  a  century. 

For  here  was  the  eighth  president  of  the  United 
States,  after  the  lapse  of  nearly  fifty  years  since  the 
time  mentioned  by  the  great  French  writer,  travel- 
ling in  a  wild  part  of  the  country,  several  hundred 
miles  from  the  seat  of  government,  without  retinue, 
or  even  an  attendant* 

Colonel  Crow,  has  a  large  garden-  attached  to  his 
establishment,  where  we  gathered  a  bouquet  of  jes- 
samines and  went  on  to  the  Sweet, 


WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 

4  •  ^ 

We  left  the  picturesque  behind  us,  and  for  the 
next  six  miles  of  our  journey,  we  passed  through  a 
more  cultivated  country,  with  many  large  fields  of 
waving  wheat  tops  and  corn  blade.  Within  a  mile 
or  two  of  the  sweet,  we  came  to  what  is  called  the 
Red  Spring,  an  old  delapidated  building,  grey  with 
age,  and  all  its  windows  shattered.  A  young  coun- 
try boy  was  swinging  on  the  broken  gate  which  led 
to  the  house  from  the  road,  and  in  reply  to  our  ques- 
tion as  to  who  lived  there,  he  told  us  with  an  arch 
look,  that  it  was  haunted ;  and  scampered  off,  leav- 
ing us  much  to  marvel,  with  our  curiosity  excited. 

Mr.  Paulding  says  in~his  letters  from  the  South, 
written  twenty  years  since,  that  the  boys  in  this  re- 
gion are  all  born  poets,  but  that  they  run  about  in 
the  sun,  without  hats,  and  have  their  brains  dried  up. 

Before  twelve  o'clock,  we  entered  the  smiling 
valley  of  the  Sweet  Springs.  As>we  passed  to  our 
lodgment,  in  the  direction  of  the  bath  house,  we 
heard  the  merry  voices  of  the  bathers,  enjoying 
themselves  at  their  usual  hour. 

We  made  our  first  appearance  at  dinner,  where 
over  two  hundred  persons  were  struggling  for  elbow 
room  at  two  tables  only  large  enough  for  half  that 
number.  We  were  so  fortunate  as  to  be  seated 
near  a  celebrated  caterer,  who  having  a  dozen  ser- 
vants in  his  pay,  he  was  liberal  enough  to  supply 


*4  **L 

'$ 

SWEET     SPRINGS.  49 

all  his  friends  in  his  vicinity.  We  had  air  during 
dinner,  from  the  many  fans  suspended  above,  and 
which  were  kept  constantly  in  motion. 

Whoever  comes  to  the  mountains,  should  make  a 
visit  to  the  Sweet  Springs,  if  but  for  one  day.  Much 
of  the  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  is  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  refreshing  kind,  and  the  whole  place 
is  redolent  with  life  and  animation,  particularly  at  a 
time  when  thronging  with  company. 

You  enter  on  your  arrival  into  a  large  green  area, 
having  on  each  s'de  rows  of  white  rustic-looking 
cottages,  and  directly  before  you  at  the  further  end 
is  a  green  hill  of  a  most  *  peculiar  diadem.'  Many 
little  cabins  of  brick  and  frame  work  are  scattered 
in  various  parts  of  the  grounds. 

The  spring  is  under  the  piazza  of  the  bath  house, 
the  water  rises  in  a  cylindrical  reservoir.  It  is 
sparkling  and  exhilirating,  and  has  a  piquant  acidu- 
lous taste,  something  like  soda  water  which  has  been 
left  standing.  The  temperature  of  the  wrater  is  73 
degrees  Farenheit,  and  contains  sulphate  of  magne- 
sia, muriate  of  soda,  and  sulphate  of  soda,  carbo- 
nate of  magnesia,  carbonate  of  lime,  with  traces 
of  iron  and  silaceous  matter,  free  carbonic  acid, 
bi-carbonate  of  soda,  and  carbonic  acid  gas,  the 
excess  of  the  carbonic  acid,  gives  the  waters  a  great 
briskness. 

5 


50         WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 

The  stream  is  very  copious  and  supplies  the  two 
extensive  baths  in  the  adjoining  building,  which  are 
reserved  for  the  different  sexes.  The  gentleman's 
bath  is  in  a  quadrangular  form  of  five  feet  in  depth, 
and  surrounded  by  a  wall  with  an  opening  at  the 
top ;  the  water  is  continually  flowing  off.  Upon  first 
entering  the  bath,  you  receive  a  slight  shock  ;  and  in 
another  moment,  the  most  delightful  sensations  come 
over  you.  The  water  is  soft  and  unctious  to  the 
body,  and  it  stimulates  powerfully  the  action  of  the 
skin,  being  of  a  tonic  nature,  improving  its  functions, 
and  exciting  the  activity  of  the  absorbent  system. 
The  carbonic  acid  gas  is  seen  bubbling  up,  in  little 
globules,  on  the  surface  of  the  wrater. 

We  were  recommended  not  to  remain  in  the  bath 
longer  than  three  minutes  at  first ;  but  we  heard  of 
two  persons,  the  day  before,  having  remained  in  the 
other  bath  over  an  hour.  At  some  of  the  baths  in 
Switzerland,  which  have  not  a  very  high  tempera- 
ture, the  patients  pass  six  or  eight  hours  a  day  in 
the  water. 

Bathing  has  become  a  science,  and  many  treatises 
have  been  written  on  the  subject.  For  those  who 
would  enlarge  and  extend  such  information,  the 
waters  of  the  springs  of  this  region  will  afford  them 
the  best  opportunities  of  judging,  both  by  practical 
experiments  of  their  efficacy,  and  from  observation 
of  the  various  effects  upon  different  systems. 


SWEET     SPRINGS.  51 

We  conversed  with  Jean  DeLorme,  the  old  bath- 
keeper,  who  has  been  standing  here,  with  a  napkin 
on  each  arm,  for  the  last  forty  years.  "  Peregrine 
Prolix"  has  given  his  history  in  full,  so  we  were  pre- 
pared for  the  antiquated  guardian  of  the  bath. 

The  Sweet  Springs  are  among  the  most  ancient 
and  celebrated  watering  places  in  the  United  States, 
and  it  is  only  surprising,  that  until  very  lately,  so  few 
improvements  have  been  made  in  the  buildings.  A 
large  and  handsome  hotel  is  now  erecting,  which 
will  be  ready  for  the  reception  of  guests  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1 839,  and  the  accommodations  will  then  be 
sufficient  for  four  hundred  persons.  This  has  been 
long  wanting,  for  the  cottages  are  mostly  old  and 
dilapidated,  each  containing  two  small  rooms 

The  bar  room  of  the  present  day,  was  once  the 
theatre  of  quite  a  different  display.  The  county 
court  was  formerly  held  in  that  room,  where  Patrick 
Henry,  and  other  great  men  of  Virginia,  have  been 
heard  to  thunder  their  eloquence. 

There  is  a  continual  flow  and  ebb  of  company 
here  during  the  summer,  and  it  is  only  in  the  latter 
part  of  August,  and  the  first  few  weeks  in  Septem- 
ber, that  the  place  is  much  crowded,  when  persons, 
with  families,  after  having  drank  the  waters  of  the 
other  springs,  come  here  to  bathe  in  the  waters, 
which  possess  so  many  secret  and  beneficial  quali- 


52  WHITE   SULPHUR   PAPERS. 

ties.  Its  influence  is  visible  in  the  gay  spirits  and 
animation  of  the  company.  The  amusements  here 
are  various — a  ball  room  and  a  piano,  where  the 
ladies  can  amuse  themselves;  and  many  pretty  walks 
of  an  evening  over  the  green  hill,  which  leads  to 
more  sequestered  retreats  through  the  woods  and 
to  groves  shaded  by  the  maple  trees :  rides  on  horse- 
back and  drives  to  water  falls,  and  fishing  streams, 
in  the  neighbourhood  —  and  theyhave  the  most 
trans-parent  of  moonlights. 

The  forests  abound  in  game,  particularly  phea- 
sants-— and  gentlemen  can  have  fine  sport  in  that 
way. 

The  Sweet  Springs  are  destined,  at  no  distant 
day,  to  become  a  great  and  favourite  place  of  resort, 
and  its  vicinity  to  the  White  Sulphur,  and  the  facili- 
ties of  getting  there,  give  it  many  advantages. 

The  Sweet  Spring  water  is  serviceable  in  the  va- 
rieties of  dyspepsia,  accompanied  by  spasms,  or  with 
pains  at  irregular  intervals.  In  secondary  debility 
of  the  digestive  canal,  from  the  exhausting  heat  of 
summer,  or  in  chronic  diarrhea  and  dysentery  with- 
out fever. 

Females  of  what  are  termed  a  nervous  habit  of 
body,  who  have  been  enfeebled  by  protracted  con- 
finement, or  long  nursing  their  children,  deprivation 
of  exercise,  and  of  the  enjoyment  of  fresh  air,  and 


SWEET    SPRING     WATER.  53 

who  have  in  addition  to  these  causes  of  dyspepsia, 
made  excessive  use  of  tea  and  coffee,  will  find  their 
health  and  strength  restored  by  drinking  these 
waters,  and  by  using  the  bath. 

The  usual  time  for  drinking  the  waters  of  the 
Sweet  Springs,  is  early  in  the  morning,  before  din- 
ner, and  at  tea  time.  This  latter  period  is  an  im- 
proper one,  it  has  been  thought ;  except  the  invalid 
suffer  at  the  time  from  spasm  of  the  stomach,  or  ex- 
perience a  morbid  and  gnawing  sensation  of  hunger. 
The  water  is  also  useful  in  calculus  and  nephritic 
complaints.  It  is  efficacious  in  those  deranged  states 
of  the  digestive  functions  which  are  termed  abdomi- 
nal obstruction.  In  chronic  enlargement  of  the  liver, 
or  long  standing  stomach  disorder  with  acidity, 
hemorrhoidal  affections,  and  uterine  derangement. 
The  water  being  only  tepid,  the  bath  is  not  recom- 
mended for  chronic  rheumatism  or  gout. 

The  waters  of  the  Sweet  Springs,  (save  in  tempe- 
rature,) for  their  cures  and  in  their  ingredients,  may 
be  likened  to  those  of  Vichy,  a  celebrated  watering 
place  in  France,  on  the  banks  of  the  Allier,  eighty 
leagues  from  Paris. 


54 


CHAP.   VI. 


DEER   HUNT    AT    THE    WHITE    SULPHUR LEWISBURO BRIDGE 

OF    SIGHS ANECDOTES. 


ONE  of  the  favorite  amusements  at  the  White  Sul- 
phur, is  the  deer  hunt.  The  season  commences 
after  the  first  of  August,  and  continues  until  the 
close  of  November;  and  during  those  four  months 
it  is  kept  up  continually,  and  with  much  spirit  A 
very  fine  pack  of  hounds,  to  the  number  of  sixty,  is 
owned  here  by  one  of  the  sons  of  the  proprietor,  and 
it  is  a  beautiful  and  novel  sight  to  see  them  all  going 
out. 

The  several  Carolina  gentlemen  who  spend  their 
summers  here,  are  particularly  fond  of  the  sport, 
and  each  morning  during  the  season,  they  may  be 
seen  getting  ready,  with  high  hope  in  their  faces, 
and  arranging  the  routes  and  the  drives  for  the  day. 
And  when  the  spoil  is  brought  in,  and  displayed  in 
the  principal  square,  there  is  a  great  rejoicing  among 
the  sportsmen  and  good  livers,  and  comparing  of 
notes  amon<j  the  hunters.  The  fortunate  hero  of 


. 
DEER    HUNT   AT    THE    WHITE    SULPHUR.       55 

the  day  has  a  feather  in  his  cap  until  the  next  hunt, 
and  claims  the  first  haunch,  with  the  privilege  of 
making  a  present  of  the  other  to  whom  he  pleases. 

Great  preparations  were  making  one  morning  for 
the  hunt.  A  slight  rain  the  evening  previous  had 
laid  the  dust  somewhat,  and  the  ground  was  thought 
to  be  in  good  order,  and  the  dogs  were  keen  for  the 
scent.  The  President  was  to  attend  the  hunt  that 
day,  and  much  pleasure  was  anticipated,  and  the 
southern  men  were  anxious  to  show  the  northerners 
a  little  real  good  sport. 

There  was  a  mounting  and  making  ready  among 

the  party.  Col.  S ,  Col.  H ,  of  Carolina, 

and  Dr.  C ,  the  leaders  of  the  chase,  and  the 

crack  shots  were  there — and  Nimrod,  raising  his 
bugle,  brought  forth  the  whole  pack  with  their 
music,  as  loosened  from  the  kennel  they  came  dash- 
ing through  the  square. 

This  being  an  uncommon  day,  it  was  given  out 
that  the  ladies  could  accompany  the  party,  follow- 
ing, those  who  pleased,  in  carriages. 

The  party  started  and  took  the  Greenbriar  route. 
Nimrod  with  the  hounds  in  front,  and  then  the  cava- 
liers with  their  velvet  coats  and  caps,  and  rifles 
and  double-barrels.  Many  of  the  gentlemen  who 
carried  no  guns,  preferred  ambling  along  with  the 
carriages,  as  much  more  gallant  than  leaving  them, 
for  other  deer  in  the  mountains. 


56  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

We  went  forth  in  gallant  style,  and  only  wanted 
the  hawkers,  to  have  imagined  ourselves  in  the 
reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth  on  a  Holy-rood  day. 

After  driving  for  a  few  miles,  we  came  to  the 
appointed  place  on  a  turn  off  from  the  road,  on  a 
grassy  knoll  in  the  shade,  which  was  to  be  our 
stand,  and  where  we  were  left  to  shoot  the  deer  if 
we  pleased,  with  canes  and  parasols,  whenever  he 
might  come  by. 

Occasionally  we  would  hear  the  baying  note  of  a 
single  hound,  which  would  die  away  in  the  breeze, 
then  again  of  the  whole  pack.  Nearer  and  nearer 
they  came.  A  horseman  dashed  by  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  springs.  We  were  all  again  in  motion, 
and  from  a  station  of  greater  eminence  on  the  hill 
at  a  little  distance,  where  we  were  promised  in  a 
short  while  a  rare  sight,  as  something  fine  had  been 
started. 

We  had  not  waited  long  before  a  large  stag 
made  his  appearance  from  the  brushwood  at  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  and  bounded  into  the  field,  the 
dogs  after  him  in  full  cry.  It  was  a  most  exciting 
scene.  The  dogs  were  running  beautifully,  most  of 
them  two  and  two,  at  full  speed,  and  the  deer  about 
twenty  yards  only,  in  front.  Three  times  they 
went  round  and  across  Briar-field,  the  hounds  gain- 
ing rapidly — now  within  a  few  feet  of  him — now 


DEER    HUNT LEWISBURG.  57 

the  stag  gaining,  while  many  a  fond  wish  from  the 
softest  hearts,  was  heard  for  his  safety. 

"I  hope  he  will  escape,"  said  one  fair  lady. 

"  I  hope  he  wont,"  said  Frank  H ,  a  great 

rider,  "  he  has  worried  us  enough  to-day." 

We  all  looked  on  with  great  interest.  The  boys 
who  had  read  Ovid,  thought  of  Actaeon  and  a  dark 
eyed  girl,  quoted  a  passage  from  Scott. 

The  affrighted  animal  in  the  mean  time,  knowing 
his  danger,  was  making  for  the  stream,  which  he 
gained  just  as  Ring,  a  famous  hound,  would  have 
had  him,  in  another  jump. 

The  deer,  after  swimming  for  half  a  mile,  and 
cooling  himself  was  again  routed,  but  too  stiffened 
then  for  another  race,  he  was  soon  overtaken  and 
at  the  mercy  of  the  dogs ;  but  this  was  out  of  our 
sight. 

The  company,  after  witnessing  a  deer  hunt  in  our 
own  times,  and  much  pleased  with  the  sport,  went 
off  to  Lewisburg,  many  of  them  to  finish  the  day. 
This  is  a  little  town  ten  miles  from  the  White  Sul- 
phur. The  court  is  held  here,  where  parties  make 
frequent  excursions  to  hear  a  speech  at  the  bar,  dine 
at  Frazier's,  and  then  return  in  the  evening. 

We  left  Lewisburg  after  five  o'clock,  and  came 
home  in  high  glee,  passing  over  the  "Bridge  of 
Sighs."  This  is  a  bridge  thrown  over  the  creek, 


58  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

about  two  rrvles  from  the  springs,  and  is  a  very 
pretty  place  for  a  walk  of  an  afternoon.  It  is  so 
called  from  the  fact  of  a  young  fawn  having  been 
wounded  by  the  hunters  and  escaping  pursuit,  hav- 
ing there  fallen  where  a  party  just  returning  from  a 
pic  nic,  were  drawn  up.  The  graceful  animal, 
while  expiring,  yielded  his  last  sigh  at  this  spot, 
accompanied  by  more  than  one  tear  from  pitying 
beauty — and  hence  it  goes  by  the  name  of  the 
-  Bridge  of  Sighs." 

Hunting  the  deer  is  an  ancient  sport,  and  has 
been  patronized  by  all  the  liberal  nations.  It  was 
formerly  in  England  a  royal  privilege,  and  all  the 
crowned  heads  of  the  realm  have  taken  part  in  it. 

Edward  the  Confessor,  it  is  said,  was  a  great 
hunter,  and  exacted  three  thousand  loaves  of  bread 
from  one  of  his  manors  for  the  support  of  his  dogs. 

As  an  illustration  of  the  eagerness  and  excite- 
ment which  characterized  the  followers  of  the  sport 
in  former  times,  it  is  related  in  the  field  book,  that 
the  Duke  of  Grafton,  while  hunting,  was  thrown 
into  a  ditch,  at  the  same  time  a  young  curate  call- 
ing out,  "lie  still  my  lord,"  leaped  over  him,  and 
pursued  his  sport.  Such  an  apparent  want  of  feel- 
ing we  may  presume  was  properly  resented;  but 
no  such  thing.  On  being  helped  out  by  his  attend- 
ants, his  grace  said — «  That  man  shall  have  the  first 


"%'"'  V 

*  »     * 

HUNTING   AMONG    THE    INCAS.  59 

good  living  within  my  gift,  if  he  had  stopped  to  take 
care  of  me,  I  never  would  have  given  him  any 
thing." 

A  traditional  account  is  given  of  the  celebrated 
spring  in  Germany,  called  Hirchsprung,  having  been 
discovered  by  the  Emperor  Charles  IV.,  who,  while 
on  the  hunt,  brought  a  stag  to  bay  at  this  spot, 
whence  it  leaped  down  the  valley;  the  stag  was 
overtaken  at  the  sprudel,  which  occasioned  the  dis- 
covery of  the  spring,  from  which  the  emperor,  at  a 
subsequent  period,  when  he  was  wounded  in  the 
wars,  derived  so  much  benefit,  that  he  founded  and 
gave  his  name  to  the  town,  which  soon  increased 
considerably  in  size,  and  became  one  of  the  first 
watering  places  in  Europe. 

In  the  time  of  the  Incas,  a  grand  semi-annual  hunt 
was  held  throughout  their  land.  About  thirty  thou- 
sand of  the  natives  enclosed  some  twenty-five  leagues 
of  country,  bordered  by  rivers  and  mountains.  The 
hunters  made  a  great  hallowing  and  noise,  and  the 
animals  alarmed,  were  hemmed  in,  and  taken.  The 
lions,  bears,  lynxes,  foxes  and  other  beasts  of  prey, 
were  extirpated.  Sometimes  as  many  as  forty 
thousand  of  such  animals  as  the  roebuck,  fallow  deer 
and  vicuma,  were  caught.  All  the  best  males  and 
females  were  suffered  to  escape  ;  the  old  ones  only 
were  killed. 


60 


CHAR  VII. 


THE  SALT  SULPHUR — THE  RED  SULPHUR — THE  GREY  SVLPHUR 
THE  BLUE  SULPHUR. 


IN  no  country  within  the  same  circumscribed  space, 
can  there  be  found  so  many  valuable  medicinal 
waters,  whose  qualities  are  of  such  high  repute,  as 
among  the  vallies  of  this  region.  The  springs  of 
the  Pyrenees  and  of  Germany,  are  very  numerous 
in  some  parts,  mostly  within  the  different  villages, 
but  the  qualities  of  but  a  very  few  of  them  can  com- 
pare with  the  waters  of  the  Sweet  Springs,  the 
Warm  Springs,  the  Hot  Springs,  or  the  White  Sul- 
phur, the  Red  Sulphur,  the  Salt  Sulphur,  the  Blue 
Sulphur  and  the  Grey  Sulphur — all  of  which  are 
within  the  limits  of  a  half  day's  ride. 

This  is  one  of  the  advantages  a  traveller  enjoys 
in  a  visit  to  the  springs  in  this  section.  Without 
being  compelled  to  remain  at  one  place  the  whole 
summer,  he  can  spend  a  portion  of  his  time  at  each, 
and  if  his  health  is  not  benefited  by  the  waters  of 
one  spring,  he  can  try  those  of  another. 


T^HEORGAFCOVE.  61 

We  left  the  White  Sulphur  one  morning,  to  visit 
the  Salt  Sulphur,  remain  there  that  day,  and  visit 
the  Red  on  the  next,  and  then  return  to  the  White. 
The  distance  to  the  Salt  Sulphur  is  twenty-four 
miles  from  the  white,  over  a  very  good  mountainous 
road,  running  through  a  very  picturesque  part  of  the 
country.  We  were  four  in  company,  and  were  getting 
along  very  pleasantly,  when  having  gone  ten  or 
twelve  miles,  our  driver  stopped  and  asked  if  any 
of  us  wanted  to  visit  the  Organ  Cave.  Upon  our 
answering  in  the  negative,  he  hesitated,  surprised  at 
our  want  of  curiosity,  and  remarked  with  much  em- 
phasis, that  "  it  was  John  Rogers'  Organ  Cave,  the 
most  celebrated,  and  greatest  curiosity  in  the  states," 
but  we  still  declined  and  pushed  on.  The  question 
then  arose  among  us,  whether  this  was  the  original 
John  Rogers,  or  merely  some  namesake,  and  we 
were  very  seriously  discussing  the  matter,  without 
coming  to  any  decisive  conclusion,  when  we  arrived 
at  the  Salt  Sulphur,  in  time  for  dinner,  where  the 
preparations  were  so  abundant,  that  we  were  in- 
clined to  think  it  an  extra  occasion,  but  we  were 
told  afterwards,  that  such  was  always  the  case  at  2 
o'clock,  p.  m.,  at  the  Salt. 

The  buildings  here  are  quite  extensive,  and  can 
accommodate  two  hundred  persons  very  conve- 


62  WHITE     SULPHUR     PAPERS. 

niently ;  the  dining  room  is  large  and  airy,  and  the 
attendance  very  good. 

The  water  of  the  spring  is  not  so  pleasant  to  the 
taste  as  that  of  the  White  Sulphur,  though  some- 
what similar;  having  an  additional  dash  of  the 
sulphate  of  soda  in  its  composition. 

We  enjoyed  the  fine  walks  in  the  neighbourhood 
over  the  heights,  having  on  all  sides  of  us  the  finest 
mountain  scenery,  and  attended  the  ball  in  the  even- 
ing which  was  quite  a  brilliant  one,  where  we  met 
many  of  our  fair  acquaintances  from  the  White. 

The  living  at  this  spring  is  so  very  fine,  that  many 
special  excursions  are  made  from  the  other  springs 
to  dine  here,  dance  in  the  evening,  and  return  home 
next  day. 

The  thriving  town  of  Union  is  within  a  few  miles 
of  these  springs. 

We  left  the  Salt  Sulphur  next  morning  after  break- 
fast, not  intending  this  should  be  our  last  visit,  and 
continued  our  route  to  the  Red  Sulphur,  the  distance 
to  which  from  this  place,  is  seventeen  miles,  over  a 
very  good  road,  through  a  wildly  beautiful  and  un- 
cultivated part  of  the  country,  telling  of  romance 
and  adventure  in  every  sedge  and  cavern  and  shad- 
ed stream,  which  you  pass  on  your  route. 

You  have  a  fine  view  of  the  whole  establishment 


K.ED    SULPHUR,  bd 

of  the  Red  Sulphur  at  a  sudden  turn  of  the  road  be- 
fore you  reach  the  springs. 

The  buildings  consist  of  two  large  and  commo- 
dious hotels,  and  several  rows  of  neat  cabins  ;  the 
walks  are  well  planned  which  intersect  the  lawns, 
and  abound  with  large  trees,  of  the  sugar  maple ;  a 
beautiful  green  hill  in  the  vicinity  forms  a  fine  pro- 
menade in  the  evening.  The  accommodations  are 
excellent  for  invalids  and  others,  and  the  place  is 
much  resorted  to  of  late  years,  by  persons  suffering 
with  pulmonary  complaints,  and  it  is  thought  when 
the  water  here,  fails  to  effect  a  cure,  there  is  no  re- 
medy beyond. 

The  spring  takes  its  name  from  the  red  precipi- 
tate at  the  bottom:  the  water  is  sedative  in  its 
effects,  and  reduces  irritation  and  the  pulse.  It  is 
mostly  taken  before  going  to  bed  at  night,  and  before 
breakfast.  Its  principal  ingredients  are  sulphate  of 
soda,  lime  and  magnesia,  carbonate  of  lime,  and  mu- 
riate of  soda. 

There  is  more  quietude  here  than  at  the  other 
springs,  and  the  sound  of  some  lone  flute  in  the  val- 
ley, will  carry  back  the  listener  to  the  history  of  the 
Pantheon  and  the  Sylvan  deities. 

They  dance  here,  as  at  all  the  springs,  and  the 
colored  race  of  Virginia  being  born  fiddlers,  a  musi- 
cian is  never  out  of  the  way. 


64  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

Our  companions,  the  most  of  them  being  gay  Lo- 
tharios, from  the  white,  could  not  be  prevailed  on 
to  remain  more  than  one  evening,  and  we  left  this 
romantic  spot  on  the  next  morning  to  return  to  the 
white,  a  distance  of  forty  five  miles. 
,  •  We  were  denied  the  pleasure  of  a  visit  to  the 
Grey  Sulphur,  which  is  nine  miles  from  the  Red. 
Those  springs  are  owned  by  a  Carolina  gentleman, 
Mr.  Legare,  who  has  been  extending  the  improve- 
ments of  the  place  for  the  last  three  years.  The 
waters  are  said  to  be  very  anti-dyspeptic,  and  con- 
tain sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  several  neutral  salts. 
Those  who  have  visited  the  Grey,  speak  very  highly 
of  the  accommodations,  and  of  the  attention  and 
politeness  of  the  host.  There  is  an  inducement  for 
company  to  visit  that  place,  arising  from  the  num- 
ber of  accomplished  Carolineans  who  resort  there 
with  their  families. 

The  Blue  Sulphur  is  twenty-five  miles  from  the 
White ;  the  stage  leaves  the  latter  place  regularly 
every  morning,  and  arrives  before  dinner.  The 
Blue  Sulphur  has  become  a  very  favorite  and  fash- 
ionable resort  within  a  few  summers  past,  and  bids 
fair  to  be  the  chief  watering  place  in  the  mountains, 
after  the  White  Sulphur.  The  accommodations 
are  sufficient  for  two  hundred  persons,  and  very  ex- 
tensive improvements  are  in  projection.  In  front  of 


BLUESULPHUR.  65 

the  main  brick  building,  is  a  handsome  three  storied 
piazza,  forming  a  fine  promenade,  before  which  you 
have  an  extensive  level  plain,  laid  out  in  walks,  and 
bounded  on  both  sides  by  the  mountains,  and  orna- 
mented with  groves  of  the  sugar  maple,  and  several 
rows  of  pretty  cabins.  The  bathing  is  unusually 
good,  and  the  bath  houses  are  in  very  fine  order. 

The  dining  room  is  of  an  agreeable  size,  and  airy 
of  a  warm  day,  and  the  table  is  abundantly  supplied 
with  many  delicacies. 

The  water  in  the  spring  very  much  resembles 
that  of  the  White  Sulphur  in  taste.  The  fountain 
is  not  so  large,  nor  the  stream  so  copious  as  the  White; 
the  water  has  a  purplish  color,  and  from  its  ingre- 
dients, it  may  be  likened  to  the  famous  spring  of  Ba- 
den. It  contains  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  carbo- 
nic acid  gas,  sulphate  of  soda,  muriate  of  soda,  sul- 
phate of  lime,  carbonate  of  lime,  sulphate  of  magne- 
sia, sulphur,  and  animal  or  glairine  matter.  The 
above  enumeration  of  its  ingredients,  agrees  pre- 
cisely with  a  published  analysis  of  the  spring  at 
Baden  near  Vienna. 


6* 


66 


CHAP.   VIII. 

AUTUMN    IN    THE    MOUNTAINS. 


THE  summer  has  gone  with  all  its  bright  days,  its" 
joys  and  its  pleasures,  and  the  soft  mellow  rays  of 
declining  September,  are  falling  on  the  woods  and 
the  hills.  The  edges  of  the  horizon  wear  a  golden 
hue,  and  the  setting  sun  is  forming  landscapes  in  the 
clouds. 

The  mountains  are  robed  in  their  highest  beauty 
— the  trees  have  put  on  their  bright  court  dresses, 
of  a  thousand  different  hues,  and  all  nature  looks 
serenely  beautiful. 

"  How  call  you  this — the  season's  fall 
That  seems  the  pageant  of  the  year, 
Richer  and  brighter  far  than  all — 
The  pomp  that  spring  and  summer  wear." 

But  very  few  persons  remain  at  the  springs  as 
late  as  the  last  week  in  September,  which,  with  part 
of  the  month  of  October,  is  the  most  delightful  period 


a 
AUTUMN     IN     THE     MOUNTAINS.  67 

to  those  who  are  fond  of  autumn  scenery  and  the 
quiet  pleasures  the  season  brings.  There  is  a  tran- 
quillity of  atmosphere  at  that  time — a  moral  philo- 
sophy of  weather  which  must  be  felt  to  be  better 
described  or  enjoyed. 

The  White  Sulphur  and  the  neighbouring  springs 
are  nearly  deserted,  a  few  still  linger ;  but  there  is ' 
company,  for  those  who  like  it,   in  the  beautiful 
scenery  of  the   surrounding   country,  and    in   the 
winged  flutterers  of  the  forest. 

The  foliage  of  the  woods,  and  the  meadows  is  of 
the  richest  kind — of  every  colour  and  every  shade, 
yellow,  purple,  blue,  vermillion,  orange,  the  modest 
orange,  scarlet,  and  crimson. 

The  Indian  summer  succeeds,  in  October,  and 
it  continues  warm  until  Christmas.  The  mountai- 
neers are  bringing  down  their  deer  to  sell,  and  their 
prices  have  fallen  considerably  since  the  consumers 
have  thinned  off,  and  the  gentlemen  in  this  vicinity 
being  all  shots  themselves,  they  never  purchase. 

The  mountains  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  for  some 
miles  around,  have  been  on  fire  for  several  days.  It 
is  a  sublime  spectacle  to  see  them  at  night,  their 
tops  covered  with  sheets  of  living  flame ;  the  young 
pine  trees  filled  with  rosin,  burn  with  a  terrible 
cracking;  and  bursting,  send  up  their  red  light  to 


68 


WHITE     SULPHUR    PAPERS 


the  black  clouds,  while  the  beholder  is  reminded  of 
volcanoes  in  their  rage. 

Fires  have  to  be  kindled  below  the  mountains  to 
meet  those  from  above,  otherwise  the  fences  and 
corn  in  the  fields  would  be  destroyed. 

These  fires,  so  destructive  to  the  verdure  and 
growth  of  the  trees,  happen,  almost  annually,  from 
the  carelessness  of  the  hunters,  who  fire  the  dry 
leaves  and  underwood  to  increase  the  facilities  of 
procuring  game,  and  not  unfrequently  from  the  burn- 
ing of  a  bee-tree. 

This  particular  region  in  the  county  of  Green- 
briar,  and  as  far  as  the  Sweet  Springs,  was  at  one 
time  a  favourite  resting  place  for  the  red  man.  The 
smoke  has  curled  from  many  a  wigwam  on  these 
high  hills,  where  councils  and  war  talks  have  been 
held,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  creek  can  now  be 
found  the  arrow  points  of  quivers  wasted  in  hunt 
and  in  battle.  Kate's  mountain,  in  view  from  the 
White  Sulphur,  was  the  scene  of  many  a  bloody 
fight  between  the  white  settlers  and  the  Indians. 
The  mountain  takes  its  name  from  an  old  lady,  Kate 
Carpenter — who  after  having  her  family  butchered, 
took  refuge  there,  where  she  remained  for  some  days 
in  great  jeopardy  of  her  life. 

But  tales  of  border  warfare  of  olden  days  have 
ceased  to  be  interesting.     The  thrilling  occurrences 


INDIAN     CHIEFS.  60 

which  are  now  daily  happening,  have  too  much 
reality  in  them  and  are  sufficiently  exciting. 

In  a  few  years  more  these  ancient  stories  will  all 
be  forgotten,  and  the  men  who  came  from  the 
thunder  will  be  gone. 

Pushamataha,  a  celebrated  chief  of  the  Chostaws. 
onbeingquestionedasto  his  birth, replied,  'Pushama- 
taha was  never  born — a  dark  cloud  passed  over  the 
horizon — a  flash  of  lightning  rent  the  tallest  pine 
tree — the  heavens  opened,  and  out  stepped  Push- 
mataha,  a  full  grown  warrior,  with  his  rifle  on  his 
shoulder.' 

Those  who  heard  the  great  Keokuk  when  at 
Washington,  will  perhaps  remember  the  opening  of 
one  of  his  speeches  where  alluding  to  the  rapid  de- 
cline of  his  race : 

"  Father,  I  stand  before  you,  one  foot  in  my  own 
nation  and  one  foot  here — the  sun  is  before  me,  and 
the  sun  is  behind  me — he  shines  all  day  with  the 
whites,  but  he  sets  among  the  red  men."  And  again 
his  touching  remarks  at  a  parting  speech  with  the 
secretary  of  war :  "  Father,  we  have  one  thing  more 
to  ask  before  we  go, — during  our  last  war  with  the 
whites,  one  of  our  young  girls  was  taken  prisoner. 
We  loved  her  very  much,  her  name  is  the  Turkey 
child,  and  the  woman,  her  mother,  has  grieved  for 
her  ever  since — she  is  weeping  her  eyes  away  at 


70  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

f  >, 

home,  and  they  call  her  the  lonely  one ;  if  you  will 
have  the  child  restored,  the  woman's  heart  will  be 
gladdened,  and  Keokuk  and  the  nation  will  be 
pleased." 

Black  Hawk,  whose  name  was  once  a  terror  in 
the  north-west,  accompanied  Keokuk  and  his  war 
riors  to  Washington  in  the  fall  of  Thirty-seven,  but 
all  his  power  had  been  taken  from  him — he  was  no 
longer  a  Chief.  A  few  years  before,  he  had  been 
carried  through  the  United  States,  by  order  of  the 
government,  to  impress  upon  him  the  power  and 
extent  of  the  country.  He  had  been  through  the 
principal  cities,  and  had  visited  fortress  Monroe, 
and  the  kavy  yard  at  Gosport  and  seen  the  shipping. 
After  he  had  been  liberated  and  had  reached  home, 
he  astonished  the  natives  of  the  forest,  in  describing 
the  wonders  he  had  witnessed.  Among  other  things 
he  told  them  he  had  seen  a  canoe,  which  would  hold 
a  thousand  people  and  a  hundred  big  guns.  This 
last  story  was  past  believing — they  suspected  him 
of  trying  to  impose  on  their  credulity.  A  canoe 
large  enough  for  a  small  nation — it  was  too  monstrous 
to  be  believed ;  it  was  decided,  however,  that  he 
should  accompany  them  on  their  visit  to  the  United 
States,  where  he  could  prove  the  many  wonders  he 
had  related. 


BLACK    HAWK-r— KEO    KUK.  71 

I  went  with  an  interpreter  at  Washington  to  see 
Black  Hawk.  I  found  him  a  much  smaller  man 
than  I  had  supposed  him  to  be,  apparently  about 
sixty  years  of  age,  plainly  dressed,  in  a  calico  shirt, 
with  blue  leggings,  and  rings  in  his  ears.  I  told  him 
I  was  glad  to  see  him,  and  had  long  heard  of  him 
as  a  great  warrior.  He  said  he  was  a  great  man 
once  when  he  was  a  Chief,  but  now,  that  the  whites 
forgot  to  come  and  shake  hands  with  him ;  and  with 
an  expressive  countenance,  he  pointed  to  a  room, 
where  Keokuk  then  was  surrounded  by  the  crowds 
who  flocked  to  see  him.  Keokuk  was  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  a  man  I  had  ever  seen — a  model 
of  nature  for  the  sculptor,  and  he  reminded  you  of 
Persico's  statue  of  war  at  the  capitol.  He  had  a 
tall  and  commanding  figure,  and  the  stamp  of  a 
nobleman  on  .his  face,  and  was  looked  after  as  he 
walked  along,  with  admiration.  He  wore  a  rich 
scarlet  robe,  flung  over  a  dress  of  the  same  colored 
material,  and  the  ornaments  and  presents  about  his 
person,  were  of  the  richest  kind.  No  Calmuc  Tar- 
tar, in  his  most  5howy  costume,  ever  appeared  lo 
finer  advantage  than  Keo  Kuk.  He  was  the  head 
the  Sacs  and  Foxes. 

An  Indian  agent  from  the  west,  gave  me  an 
account  of  another  speech  of  this  great  orator,  made 
at  a  time  when  the  Winnebagoes  had  threatened  to 


72  WHITE     SULPHUR     PAPERS. 

murder  the  whites  at  Prairie  du  Chieu.  There  was 
a  great  gathering  of  the  tribes,  for  a  peace  talk :  the 
Winnebagoes  alone,  came  into  council  with  their 
faces  painted  black,  a  sign  of  hostility. 

Keokuk,  in  an  animated  speech,  wherein  he  de- 
clared himself  the  friend  of  the  whites,  turned  to  the 
Winnebagoes  and  addressed  them  after  this  man- 
ner: 

„  Winnebagoes,  I  hear  that  you  threaten  to  make 
war  on  the  whites — if  so,  when  you  promised  them 
friendship  last  year,  you  spoke  with  a  forked  tongue 
—and  your  hearts  were  as  black  then,  as  your  faces 
are  now— Winnebagoes !"  continued  he,  plucking  a 
hair  from  his  head,  and  holding  it  up — "  you  see  this 
hair !  If  you  lay  the  weight  of  your  hand  on  a  single 
white  man,  I  will  sweep  you  from  the  face  of  the 
earth,  as  I  blow  this  hair."  The  speech  had  its 
desired  effect. 

The  road  passing  by  the  White  Sulphur,  is  the 
great  route  to  the  west  by  Guyandotte,  and  for  many 
weeks,  hundreds  of  wagons,  and  other  conveyances. 
have  been  going  by,  filled  with  emigrants,  in  search 
of  new  homes.  Men,  women  and  children,  of  all  ages, 
sizes  and  conditions.  There  is  much  character  to 
be  met  with  among  them  occasionally ;  and  it  afford- 
ed the  writer  of  these  pages  much  pleasure,  and 
interest  at  times,  to  hear  their  original  remarks,  as 


EMIGRATION.  73 

to  the  country  they  were  going  to,  and  what  they 
intended  ?o  do,  when  they  got  there. 

I  came  upon  a  party  one  day,  who  had  been  b'i- 
vouacing,on  the  side  of  the  way;  it  turned  out  to  be  a 
whole  neighbourhood,  from  one  of  the  eastern  coun- 
ties of  Virginia,  on  their  way  to  Illinois,  They  had 
with  them  all  their  farming  utensils  and  furniture — 
spinning  wheels,  churns,  and  the  like.  The  boys  (a 
number  of  them)  who  were  large  enough,  were  sup- 
plied with  guns,*  and  they  walked  after  the  wagons 
and  furnished  the  game.  The  old  patriarch  of  the 
party,  with  whom  I  conversed,  said  it  went  very 
hard  with  him  to  leave  old  Virginny,  but  the  lands 
they  had  just  quitted,  were  worn  out,  and  would  not 
produce  sufficient  support  for  their  families,  which 
were  large.  They,  had  collected  several  hundred 
dollars  among  them,  and  were  going  to  buy 
and  cultivate  new  lands  in  Illinois.  The  old  man 
was  quite  pleased  and  surprised,  when  I  mentioned 
that  the  emperor  of  China  ploughed  a  furrow  once 
a  year,  from  respect  to  the  farmers  and  agriculture, 
and  calling  the  attention  of  one  of  the  boys  near 
him,  he  said,  "Do  you  hear  that,  sir — that  the  king 
of  China  was  a  farmer?  and  if  you  keep  straight, 
you  may  be  the  president  of  the  United  States  yet" 
— nothing  more  true  than  the  old  man's  last  remark; 


-. 
74 


WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 


it  is  verified  in  the  history  of  this  country,  and  one 
of  those  very  boys  may  be  our  future  president. 

Who  were  once  the  leading  statesmen  of  the  pre- 
sent day,  and  our  great  men  in  congress  ?  Among 
the  many  instances  of  self  made  men,  there  is  one 
who  has  been  known  in  the  councils  at  Washing- 
ton, and  much  respected  for  his  character  and  ser- 
vices. I  have  heard  him  tell  his  own  story  —  how 
he  wandered  when  a  boy,  from  some  where  in  Penn- 
sylvania, I  think,  barefooted,  and  almost  without 
clothes,  begging  his  way,  as  he  went  along,  and 
swinging  to  the  ends  of  wagons,  with  n:>  capital  but 
youth  and  a  light  heart,  not  knowing  a  letter  of  the 
alphabet,  or  the  meaning  of  a  book. 

How  one  day,  overtaking  a  wagon  which  had 
stalled  in  the  road,  and  which  by  his  proffered  assist- 
ance was  released,  the  owner  patting  him  on  the 
shoulder  said,  '  'Be  of  cheer,  my  little  man,  you'll  be 
a  general  some  of  these  days."  This  he  remember- 
ed through  life. 

He  found  his  way  to  Ohio,  and  by  chopping  wood 
and  clearing  the  forest,  he  made  a  little  money  — 
finding  a  stray  newspaper  one  day,  he  became  pos- 
sessed with  a  strong  desire  to  learn  to  read,  and 
after  the  age  of  twenty-five  he  came  to  know  his 
letters.  He  was  made  a  general,  verifying  the  pre- 
diction of  the  teamster  —  was  sent  to  the  legislature, 


'     + 

' 


EFFECTS    OF    ENTERPRIZE.  75 

and  afterwards  elected  to  congress,  where  he  was 
a  prominent  member  until  1  834,  and  only  last  year 
finished  his  term  as  governor  of  the  state. 


#.} 

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»'        i*    V  * 

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1-    t  *  ;.     ' 

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'*       •      •  * 
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t 

76 


-  .  r  ' 

JOURNAL     OF    A     LADY    DURING    THE   SEASON    AT    THE 
WHITE    SULPHUR. 

4 


CHAP.  IX. 


Tuesday,  July  —  , 

IT  is  two  weeks  this  day  since  I  arrived  here,  and 
exactly  three  since  leaving  home,  towards  the  end 
of  June,  where  the  flowers  look  brighter,  and  the 
birds  sing  sweeter  with  us  than  at  any  other  time. 
I  set  out  for  this  terrestrial  paradise  —  so  it  was  de- 
scribed to  me  then  —  (and  such  I  have  almost  found 
it  to  be)  to  renovate  my  health  by  drinking  of  its 
sparkling  waters,-  and  whirl  away  the  -summer 
hours  in  mirth  and  gladness,  among  its  green  hills 
and  smiling  valleys. 

Our  party  being  among  the  first  arrivals,  we  ob- 
tained excellent  accommodations,  which  by  a  little 
tact  and  management  we  have  been  enabled  thus 


.> 

M 

' 


w* 

JOURNAL     OF     A     LADY.  77 

far  to  retain  exclusively  for  ourselves.  I  cannot 
but  contrast  the  present  aspect  here  of  every  thing, 
with  that  which  presented  itself  on  our  first  arrival. 
Then  every  thing  was  green  and  beautiful,  as  it  is 
now,  but  more  quiet  than  our  own  homes.  We 
spent  all  the  morning  in  our  cabin,  looking  from 
time  to  time  with  eager  eyes  towards  the  high  road 
in  the  hope  of  being  blessed  with  the  sight  of  some 
travelling  carriage ;  and  when  the  few  who  were 
here  met  on  the  walk  in  the  afternoon,  the  first 
enquiry  was,  what  friends  are  coming?  When  wil. 
they  be  here?  Now  all  is  life,  bustle  and  enjoy- 
ment, and  each  day  brings  an  accession  to  our  com- 
pany. It  was  but  this  moment  that  I  saw  Mr. 
Anderson  lead  the  way  to  Carolina  Row,  followed 
by  a  carriage  and  four,  filled  with  ladies;  the  gen- 
tlemen of  the  party  following  on  horseback. 

Scarcely  have  we  got  through  the  rides  and 
excursions  of  one  day,  ere  new  ones  are  proposed 

for  the  next.     "  Miss has  never  been  to  Lewis- ; 

burg,  or  Miss has  never  seen  the  cascade,  or 

would  like  to  see  it  again.  We  must  have  a  ride 
over  to  the  Sweet  Springs ;  we  can  dine  at  Crow's 
on  the  way  back,  and  then  be  in  time  for  the  ball." 

Such  is  the  usual  preface  of  conversation  among 
a  circle  of  some  twenty  persons.  But  there  's  the 
dinner  bell,  and  as  I  saw  pretty  Mrs.  K 's  maid 


78  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

run  by  just  now  with  the  curling  tongs,  I  must  stop 
writing  in  order  to  give  a  look  at  my  own  coiffure, 
or  I  shall  not  be  in  time  to  witness  the  grand  entree 
into  the  dining  hall. 

After  dinner  I  sauntered  with  the  rest  .of  the 
world  into  the"  ball-room,  which  is  the  only  general 
parlour  here.  Meeting  with  the  I .  .  *s,  we.  sat 
down  and  had  a  long  chat  of  more  than  an .  hour. 
As  they  expressed  a  wish,  on  leaving  the  room,  to 
pay  a  visit  in  Baltimore  Row,  I  accompanied  them. 
We  found  the  door  closed,  which  signifies  here. 
'•  not  at  home."  We  wrote  our'names  and  the  hour 
of  calling,  on  one  of  the  pillars  of  the  piazza,  and 
retraced  our  steps  home.  If  we  had  Ij^ct  cards 
with  us,  it  would  have  been  in  accordance  with  true 
etiquette  to  have'  placed  them  under  the  door.  On 

reaching  my  room,  I  wrote  a  long  letter  to  S . 

entreating  her  to  come  and  join  us  here.  After  tea 
I  merely  took  two  or  tnree  turns  on  the  walk,  and 
then  came  up  to  seal  my  letter  for 'the  mail,  and 
make  ready  for  the  ball ;  which,  by  the  bye,  -was 
the  gayest  and  brightest  we  have  had.  "  Murray  " 
played  with  spirit,  and  we  encouraged  him  by  danc- 
ing until  half  past  ten — it  was  eleven  before  we  had 
talked  the  day  over,  and  as  it  is  now  sometime  after, 
I  very  cheerfully  say  good  night. 
"  fc  '  .*• 


-4*. 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  79 


Thursday,  . 

I  had  just  fallen  asleep  last  night,-  when  I  was 
awakened  by  the.  sound  of  music.  I  listened.  It 
came  nearer  and  nearer,  and  I  discovered  it  was 
the  band  serenading.  At  length  they  stopped 
beneath  our  window  for  half  an  hour,  and  then 
"again  pa^secf  'on,stopping  occasionally  on  their  1fray, 
until  the  sounds  were  completely  lost  in  the  dis- 
tance. Serenades  are  of  nightly  occurrence  here. 
About  three  nights  since,  I  listened  to  some  of  the 
sweetest  music  I  had  ever  heard,  from  at,  guitar,  a 
flute,  and  three  voices.  • 

Apropos  to  serenades,  I  was  much  amused  to-day 
by  an  anecdote  related  to  me  by  a  lady  who  had 
an  active  part  in  th#Scene.  It  seems  that  she  and 
her  cousin,  a  young  lady  of  much  romance  and 
spirit/  were  here  last  summer,  and  the  first  among 
those  who  were  most  courted  and  admired.  Two 
gentlemen,  friends  of  theirs,  were  to  leave  the 
springs  next  morning,  and  from  some  intimation 
given  during  the  day,  the  ladies  understood  that 
they  were  to  receive  that  evening  a  farewell  sere- 
nade. 

My  cousin,  continued  she,  determined  to  reward 
them  and  proposed  forming  wreaths  of  flowers 
to  be  lowered  to  them  at  the  conclusion  of  their 
song.  After  some  Uttle  persuasion,  I  assented 


88         WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERR. 

to  the  plan,  and  that  day  was  spent  in  gathering  the 
brightest  flowers,  and  twining  them  with  the  dark 
green  leaves  of  the  laurel  which  grows  in  such  abun- 
dance here  into  crowns  for  the  expected  trouba- 
dours. Night  came,  and  about  an  hour  after  we 
had  retired,  we  heard  the  anticipated  sounds  beneath 
the  window;  we  immediately  rose  and  attaching 
strings  of  ribbon  to  the  wreaths,  we  softly  raised  the 
sash  and  at  the  conclusion  of  the  first  song,  lowered 
them  to  our  friends  below.  There  was  a  slight 
pause  and  then  some  whispering  among  the  musi- 
cians as  though  they  were  consulting  how  they 
might  best  reward  so  flattering  a  return  of  their 
compliment  to  us,  so  we  thought  at  least,  and  were 
confirmed  in  this  opinion  by  their  singing  in  conclu- 
sion one  of  our  most  favourite  songs. 

We  retired  in  high  spirits  at  what  we  considered 
the  success  of  our  little  frolic.  In  the  morning  on 
looking  from  the  window  as  usual,  to  ascertain  the 
state  of  the  weather,  what  was  our  consternation, 
at  beholding  withered  and  neglected  on  the  ground 
the  wreaths  that  we  fondly  imagined  were  on  the 
road  to  the  Warm  Springs  with  the  friends  for  whom 
they  were  intended  and  treasured  by  them  as  pre- 
cious remembrances  of  ourselves.  It  so  happened 
that  the  night  had  been  dark,  and  we  had  been  so 
cautious  in  our  movements,  that  we  were  neither 


JOURNAL    OP    A    LADY.  81 

heard  nor  our  offerings  received.  We  instantly 
sent  down  our  maid  to  rescue  them  from  observation 
and  could  but  laugh  at  the  failure  of  a  scheme,  the 
supposed  success  of  which  had  given  us  so  much 

satisfaction  the  night  before. 

» 

4f 

Saturday, . 

About  six  o'clock  this  evening,  a  gay  party  of  us 
were  on  our  way  to  Briar-field,  the  residence  of  Mrs. 

B ,  about  two  miles  from  the  springs,  in  the 

direction  of  Lewisburg,  where  we  were  invited  to 
spend  the  evening,  or  as  they  say  here,  to  a  tea- 
drinking.  -In  our  rides  to  L ,  the  house  which 

stands  back  from  the  road  had  frequently  been  point- 
ed out,  when  seen  in  glimpses  through  the  trees,  as 
the  dwelling  of  one  of  the  most  amiable  of  ladies, 
and  one  who  was  exceedingly  fond  of  the  society  of 
young  people,  and  always  taking  pleasure  in  coetri- 
buting  all  in  her  power,  in  any  way,  to  their  happi- 
ness or  amusement. 

Upon  our  arrival,  we  found  quite, a  sociable 
number  had  preceded  us,  and  we  were  very  cordially 
received  by  the  kind  hostess.  Tea  was  handed,  and 
the  waiters  were  filled  with  such  a  profusion  of  good 
things,  and  creams,  and  warm  pound-cake,  that  we 
forgot,  for  awhile,  in  our  delight,  that  we  were  more 
than  three  hundred  miles  from  home  in  the  moun- 


82         WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 

tains,  but  imagined  ourselves  on  an  evening  visit  to 
a  country  seat  near  the  city. 

After  tea,  leaving  the  elder  portion  of  the  com- 
pany to  amuse  themselves  as  they  pleased,  we  young 
people,  strolled  into  the  garden,  which  may  be  easily 
perceived  from  its  flourishing  condition,  to  be  under 
the  peculiar  care  of  its  mistress.  The  only  spot  I 
have  seen  in  the  neighbourhood,  where  flowers  are 
cultivated. 

The  garden  is  extensively  laid  out,  abounding  in 
fruit  trees,  and  currants  and  raspberries.  A  small 
arbor  is  covered  with  the  multiflora  rose  and  honey- 
suckle, and  the  borders  of  the  walks  are  lined  with 
the  prettiest  flowers,  pinks,  mignionette,  hearts-ease, 
ambrosias,  and  stork  jellies — all  reminding  us  so 
much  of  our  sweet  garden  at  home. 

The  evening  was  beautifully  clear  and  bright,  but 
the  dew  beginning  to  fall,  we  were  soon  called  into 
the  house  by  our  prudent  friends,  to  the  little  vexa- 
tion, no  doubt,  of  some  who  were  wandering  off 
alone,  to  the  less  frequented  paths  of  the  garden, 
endeavouring,  perchance,  to  tell  their  feelings  in 
flowers,  and  drinking  sentiment  from  tulip  cups  and 
blushing  rose  buds.  Soon  after  our  return  to  the 
house,  we  took  leave  of  our  amiable  hostess,  and 
returned  to  decorate  our  heads  for  the  ball,  from  the 

many  pretty  bouquets  she  had  so  generously  pre- 
sented us. 

at 


*  *- 


7.  * 

JOURNAL     OF     A     LADY.  83 


Monday, 


We  are  four  in  our  cabin ;  C.  and  I.  occupying 
one  room,  and  having  our  front  room  to  receive 
visitors,  and  our  piazza  for  our  music  saloon.  We 
are  much  better  off  than  many  of  our  acquaintances 
in  Virginia  row,  where  they  Have  but  two  apart- 
ments in  each  cabin. 

We  attended  divine  service  on  Sunday,  in  the 
ball  room,  at  eleven  o'clock.  There  is  no  regular 
minister  here,  but  generally  some  one  is  present,  to 
officiate  on  each  Sabbath.  The  day  is  very  reli- 
giously observed,  more  so  than  at  most  of  the  noi  th- 
em watering  places,  which  is  saying  a  good  deal  for 
the  high  tone  and  moral  sense  of  the  company,  and 
in  the  midst  of  all  our  pleasures,  there  is  no  little  to  be 
admired  at  it. 

Wanting  some  barege  for  veils  this  morning,  C. 
and  I.  went  over  to  the  store,  which  is  kept  in  the 
corner  of  Virginia  row.  When  we  entered,  we 
found  the  only  person  in  attendance,  then  assisting 
a  lady  in  trying  a  pair  of  gloves  on  a  little  boy  of 
five  years  old,  who  persisted  most  pertinaceously  in 
thrusting  his  four  fingers  into  that  part  intended  for 
his  thumb  alone,  so  we  had  time  to  look  about  us  at 
the  many  fanciful  things  which  were  arranged  rather 
promiscuously  on  the  shelves :  dry  goods,  buttons, 
nails,  laces,  silks,  shoes,  artificial  flowers,  perfumery, 
jewelry,  and  in  short,  every  thing  which  could  be 


84  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

wanted  or  asked  for,  was  to  be  had.  Suspended 
from  the  ceiling,  were  tin  btiekets,  hosiery,  baskets, 

stage  whip  and  horns,  ajid  numerous  other  trifles. 
0 

The  person  who  waited  on  us,  was  more  than  civil, 
and  finding  what  we  wanted,  we  came  away  much 
satisfied. 

In  the  "porch  -foere  a  pair  of  scales,  where  we 

'  found  a*young  lady  affecting  the  delicate  ant!  inter- 
esting, qufte  shocked  to  find  that  she  weighed  a 

'  hundred  pounds.  What  must  have  been  her  con- 
tempt for  me,  who  "weigh  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
three?  however,  I  am  told  a  young  lady  may  weigh 
126  without  exceeding  the  allowed  .compliment  of 
em  bon  point  beauty. 

After  dinner,  we  heard  some  delightful  music  at 
the  ball  room,  both  vocal  and  instrumental,  from 

Mrs.  and  her  sister  Miss  ;  it  was  so 

attractive,  that  we  remained  there  for  some  hours. 

Wednesday, . 

We  were  invited  to  a  lunch  at  the  Colonnade  this 
morning.  We  met  there  a  very  agreeable  company 
of  some  dozen  ladies  and  gentlemen;  the  refresh- 
ments were  fine,  and  with  much  wit  and  good  hu- 
mour, the  two  hours  went  off  very  pleasantly.  The 
ball  in  the  evening  was  quite  gay;  the  order  of  the 
dance  is  two  cotillions,  then  a  waltz,  the  Spanish 
dance,  or  Virginia  reel,  being  generally  the  finale ; 


JOURNAL    OP    A    LADY.  85 

and  to-night,  for  the  first  time,  we  had  the  German 
cotillion.  One  is  often  amused  at  the  variety  of  style 
of  dancing  with  different  persons.  We  have  every 
grade  exhibited,  from  the  ancient  pigeon  wing,  and 
bobbing  up  and  down  of  the  country  squire  and  miss, 
to  the  slide,  or  dignified,  walking  through,  of  the  more 
eastern  Belle  and  Beau.  I  don't  1tnow  exactly  what 
our  style  can  be  called,  but  very  likely  it  is  thought 
outre,,  by  those  who  prefer  then*  own. 

There  is  one  gentleman  here  from  Baltimore,  who 
in  defiance  of  his  silver-tinged  locks,  seems  to  enjoy 
his  dance  as  much  as  the  youngest  among  the  com- 
pany ;  he  scorns  the  modern  introduction  of  boots, 
(and  there  I  think  him  right)  and  seems  to  point  the 
toe  of  his  well-polished  pump  with  peculiar  emphasis, 
.  where  the  heel  of  some  reckless  Wellington  passes 
before  him. 

It  is  impossible  not  to  meet  with  some  eccentrici- 
ties and  oddities  of  dress  among  every  company 
gathered  at  a  watering  place ;  still  I  do  wish  frock 
coats  were  entirely  banished  from  the  ball  room,  and 
gloves  more  generally  introduced.  In  a  company, 
for  the  most  part,  so  select  as  that:  now  here,  the 
improprieties  in  dress  above  alluded  to,  strikes  one 
the  more  glaring. 


.*> 


86 


*  * 


WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 


Thursday,  August  — . 

This  is  the  commencement  of  August,  called  the 
gay  month,  and  persons  are  flocking  here  from  all 
quarters;  more  than  fifty  each  day  have  to  be  de- 
nied admittance.  The  southerners,  from  the  lower 
counties  of  Virginia  and  elsewhere  continue  to  arrive, 
most  of  them  have  cabins  provided,  and  their  coming 
is  anticipated. 

After  breakfast  this  morning,  we  returned  to  our 
cabins,  and  remained  on  the  piazza  chatting  with 
our  neighbours,  and  watching  the  departure  of 
the  gentlemen  for  the  hunt;  this  is  the  beginning 
of  the  hunting  season,  and  their  preparations  are  all 
new  to  us. 

After  reading'  the  letters  from  home,  I  took  my 

work  and  sat  all  the  morning  with  dear  Mrs. , 

who  is,  without  exception,  one  of  the  most  charming 
old  ladies  I  have  ever  met  with ;  I  found  her  con- 
versation so  instructive  and  interesting,  that  I  re- 
mained with  her  until  .the  appearance  of  the  cake 
man  reminded  me  that  it  was  after  twelve.  This 
person  is  of  no  little  importance  here ;  he  carries  a 
large  wooden  tray,  suspended  from  his  shoulders  by 
a  leather  strap,  and  on  it  is  scattered  in  confusion 
/akes.and  crakers  and  candies;  he  makes  his  rounds 
every  day  about  noon,  when,  having  nothing  to  do, 
we  have  time  to  feel  hungry — he  ever  meets  with 
a  ready  welcome. 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  87 

At  dinner  every  one  was  very  gay.  The  gentle- 
men were  in  fine  spirits  at  the  success  of  their 
morning  expedition,  having  brought  in  two  fine  deer, 

one  of  them  said  to  have  been  killed  by  Col.  H , 

of  Carolina,  who  is  invariably  successful. 

After  dinner,  I  went  into  the  ball  room  to  procure 
from  the  leader  of  the  band  a  very  beautiful  waltz 
that  is  quite  a  favourite  here,  and  as  it  was  very 
warm,  returned  home,  and  spent  the  greater  part  of 

the  afternoon  in  copying  it.    At  sundown,  Mrs. 

called  in  her  barouche  "with  her  niece  and  Mr. 

and  asked  me  to  ride.  I  readily  acceded  to  her 
proposal,  and  the  evening  being  very  fine,  we  drove 
as  far  as  the  Greenbriar  bridge,  and  from  being 
inspired  by  the  scenery,  I  suppose,  we  entered  all 
of  us  into  a  very  sentimental  conversation.  We 
staid  out  so  late,  that  on  our  return  we  found  tea 
was  over,  and  all  of  the  walks  and  lawns  lined  with 
the  gay  and  happy.  The  table  was  not  entirely 
cleared  however,  and  we  managed  to  have  our 
supper  very  comfortably.  We  strolled  round  after- 
wards, to  one  of  the  white  cottages,  and  found  a 
laughing  party  engaged  at  cards,  playing  old  maid, 
we  remained  until  one  of  us  was  left  with  the  queen, 
but  had  no  patience  to  stay  any  longer. 

The  ball  was  more  brilliant  than  last  evening, 
and  when  we  left  it,  the  moon  was  shining  so  bright- 


->- 


88          WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 

Iy,  and  the  night  altogether  so  fine,  that  a  party  of 
us  walked  to  the  spring,  to  take  our  last  glass  of 
water  there,  instead  of  having  it  brought  to  us  as 
usual. 

Saturday, . 

The  President  arrived^  last  evening,  a  large  party 
of  gentlemen  went  out  in  carriages  and  on  horsback, 
to  meet  him,  and  welcome  him  to  the  White  Sulphur. 
The  cavalcade  came  in  about  dark,  in  a  cloud  of 
dust.  We  have  had  no  rain  here  for  several  weeks. 
The  ball,  it  is  thought,  will  be  uncommonly  attractive 
to-nigh^  so  many  distinguished  persons  having  ar- 
rived, and  we  have  been  practising  the  German 
cotillion  and  Spanish  dance  for  the  last  two  days,  to 
make  a  sensation  to-night.  Our  waltzing  company 
is  on  the  increase ;  we  have  several  now  from  New 
York,  Baltimore,  Washington,  and  Richmond. 

;>> 

4*      Tuesday, . 

I  find  a  bknk  space  of  two  days  in  my  journal. 
We  have  been  talking  over  the  events  and  pleasures 
of  last  night.  The  President  was  there,  and  a  great 
many  new  comers.  The  ladies  were  more  dressed 
'  than  ordinary,  and  the  music  played  remarkably 
well.  We  also  had  pretty  bouquets  sent  us  during 
the  evening  which  we  sported. 


V 

'"  *'•  * 

JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  89 

We  had  the  Spanish  dance,  introduced  here,  first 
by  a  gay  party  of  Floridians,  and  we  all  acquitted 

ourselves  very  well.  Gen.  H lead  off  with  Mrs. 

.     The   company  remained  until  after  twelve 

o'clock.  Miss of  Virginia,  dropped  a  very  costly 

bracelet  in  the  walk  on  Sunday  evening — it  was 
returned  to  her  the  same  night,  by  a  gentleman,  with 
the  following  lines  anonymously. 

Fair  lady !  there  ne'er  was  a  pleasure  like  mine — 
That  this  bracelet  which  dropped  from  an  arm  so  divine, 
Should  by  chance,  so  unlook'd  for,  have  fallen  to  me, 
To  restore  the  bright  treasure  uninjured  to  thee. 

It  must  have  been  sever'd,  unlinked  from  its  tie, 
By  some  throb  of  affection  as  tremulously 
From  the  deep  spring,  the  heart,  it  unresistingly  stole, 
And  buoyantly  broke  from  the  passion's  controul. 

But  be  that  as  it  may,  I  fondly  shall  treasure 
The  time,  and  that  moment  of  joy  and  of  pleasure, 
When  in  transport  of  feeling,  delighted  I  pressed, 
This  pretty  bijou,  you  so  oft  have  caressed. 


We  remained  at  home  this  morning,  and  received 
a  great  many  visitors.     C.  keeps  a  list  of  all  who 
call  during  the  day.     We  have  had  a  discussion    • 
with  several  gentlemen  as  to  the  exact  height  of  the 
Venus  de  Medici,  the  standard  for  all  beauties ;  there 

was  much  differing  on  the  subject :   Mr. said 

8* 

*  "V     .> 


V>"  .«      - 

*>• 


90  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

her  height  was  four  feet  two'  inches,  and  Mr. 

was  certain  she  was  five  feet  four,  while  Mr. 

who  had  seen  the  original  at  Florence,  denied  her 
being  over  four  foot  nine  inches,  in  the  position  she 
stands.  It  was  well  perhaps  that  the  point  was  un- 
decided, as  several  ladies  who  were  present,  can 
now  liken  themselves  to  the  Venus  in  stature. 

We  are  to  have  a  musical  party  this  evening — a 
concert !  and  have  been  very  busy  all  the  afternoon 
in  arranging  and  enlarging  our  drawing-room.  We 
expect  something  of  a  squeeze.  The  gentlemen  will 
have  to  occupy  the  piazza,  and  we  must  borrow  all 
of  our  neighbours'  chairs. 

Thursday,  . 

Our  soiree  musicale,  went  off  delightfully  last 
evening,  every  one  came,  we  expected,  and  we  had 

some  very  fine  music.     Mrs. ,  of  Nashville, 

sang  the  "Banks  of  Ganges"  with  the  guitar,  and 

accompanied  by  Mr. ,  with  his  voice  and  violin, 

and  the  sweet  little  song  of  "My  Normandy."  Mrs. 

,  of  Mobile,  also  charmed  us  with  some  pretty 

Spanish  airs  on  the  guitar. 

We  have  set  the  fashion,  and  concerts  are  to  be 
the  rage.  Mrs. promises  one  to-morrow  even- 
ing at  the  veranda,  and  Miss will  have  one 

next  week  at  the  colonnade.  We  must  so  arrange 
it  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  ball. 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  91 

Friday, . 

Captain  Marryat,  the  celebrated  novelist,  has 
been  here  for  some  days.  We  had  a  long  conver- 
sation yesterday  upon  many  pleasant  topics,  and  I 
was  agreeably  disappointed  from  what  had  been 
said  of  his  rough  manners  and  address.  He  is 
perhaps  not  very  prepossessing  in  his  appearance  at 
first,  being  a  thick  set,  gruff-looking  man,  and  having 
a  reserved  look  to  a  stranger ;  but  this  soon  wears 
off  on  an  acquaintance,  and  his  eye  has  a  sparkle  of 
life  and  humor ;  and  he  has  much  anecdote. 

In  speaking  yesterday,  of  one  of  the  great  poets 
of  England  of  the  present  day,  he  said  it  was  some- 
what curious,  that  the  person  to  whom  he  went  to 
school  in  his  young  days,  and  by  whom  he  had  been> 
flogged  so  often,  that  after  he  had  become  the  editor 
of  the  Metropolitan,  he  should  then  have  had  the 
pleasure  of  paying  him  back  in  coin,  at  the  rate  of 
so  many  guineas  for  each  flagellation. 

The  phrenologists  here  have  been  to  request  an 
examination  of  his  head.  He  showed  us  the  chart : 
Ideality,  very  large — -Humor,  large — Wit,  very  little. 
It  also  makes  him  out  a  very  modest  and  diffident 
man,  which  the  captain  says,  is  about  the  only  point 
on  which  the  disciples  of  Combe  agree  in  relation 

to  him. 

5* 


92  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

He  says  he  never  commenced  writing,  for  publi- 
cation, until  as  late  as  1829.  He  has  written  with 
great  rapidity  since.  We  should  infer,  from  his 
conversation,  that  he  prefers  the  "  King's-Own"  to 
most  of  his  worjcs,  and  after  that,  the  "Pacha  of 
Many  Tales." 

He  is  writing  a  book  on  America.  I  hope  he  will 
speak  well  of  our  party,  and  not  forget  the  ladies  he 
danced  with,  at  the  White  Sulphur. 

Saturday, . 

It  rained  during  part  of  this  morning,  which  made 
the  ground  so  wet,  as  to  oblige  us  not  only  to  break- 
fast, but  dine  and  sup  in  our  cabin.  It  is  amusing, 
such  a  day  as  this,  to  watch  the  waiters  going  in 
every  direction,  carrying  the  various  meals  to  the 
different  cabins. 

Mrs.  L and  her  daughter,  being  next  door 

neighbours,  came  in  to  dine  with  us,  and  Mr.  P 

and  several  gentlemen  joined  us  at  tea  in  the  porch. 
We  sat  until  after  ten  o'clock,  listening  to  the  news 
of  the  day,  and  were  about  retiring,  when  the  sound 

of  Mr. 's  guitar,  in  Paradise  jow,  induced  us 

to  remain  awhile,  to  listen  to  its  delightful  tones, 
whif* h  he  can  so  well  draw  out. 

"  Were  it  some  hours  later,"  said  B , "  I  should 

magine  the  music  proceeded  from  the  lute  of  the 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  93 

White  Phantom."  He  was  instantly  called  upon 
to  explain.  "  Do  you  not  know,"  replied  he,  "  that 
every  dark  night,  as  the  clock  strikes  twelve,  there 
is  to  be  seen,  a  phantom  lady  in  white,  on  the  hill 
behind  Paradise  row,  who  walks  slowly  round  the 
brow  of  it,  singing  to  a  silver  lute,  sometimes  a 
guitar,  and  should  any  serenader  protract  his  song 
until  that  late  hour,  she  immediately  joins  him  in  his 
hymn  to  beauty." 

This  is  firmly  believed,  I  assure  you,  continued 
he,  by  many  persons  near  here,  and  indeed  I  thought 
one  night  I  had  the  fortune  to  behold  her,  but  on 
nearer  approach,  I  discovered  what  I  took  to  be  her 
flowing  robe,  only  a  table  cloth,  left  hanging  on  the 
trees  by  some  careless  laundress,  and  the  sound  of 
her  lute  was  only  the  echo  of  my  own  instrument, 
nevertheless  you  must  not  doubt  her  existence.  We 
promised  to  keep  a  good  look  out  for  the  white 
lady,  and  bade  our  company  good  night. 


94         WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 

BALLAD. 

Lady  in  white ! 

Who  walks't  at  night, 
Alone  at  the  dreary  hour, 

Come  tell  to  me, 

If  thou  art  she, 
Who  haunts  the  wood  and  bower. 

"  Yes,  I  am  she, 
Who  wanders  free, 

O'er  the  hills  of  Paradise ; 
And  vigil  keeps, 
While  beauty  sleeps, 

And  watch  till  darkness  flies. 

I  once  was  gay, 

I  love  the  day, 

But  doom'd  by  a  fairy's  power, 
^     When  the  moon  is  dull, 

By  the  beautiful, 
I  roam  at  the  midnight  hour. 

I  music  bring, 

And  often  fling 
Leaves  of  the  sweetest  roses, 

Where  beauty  lies, 

With  half  closed  eyes, 
And  modestly  reposes."     **%- 

Lady  in  white ! 

Thy  words  are  bright, 
Come  bring  thy  music  and  flowers, 

Come  wander  here, 

From  year  to  year, 
And  rest  in  our  woods  and  bowers. 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  95 

Monday,  . 

We  went  to  Lovers'  Retreat,  this  evening,  for  the 
first  time.  C.  and  L,  with  two  gentlemen,  who  call- 
ed for  us  at  the  appointed  time,  five  o'clock.  Upon 
going  to  the  door,  we  were  a  little  surprised  to  know 

that  we  were  to  walk,  but*  Mr.  said  that  it 

would  spoil  the  poetry  of  the  expedition,  if  we  were 
to  ride,  and  besides,  the  place  was  unapproachable 
in  a  carriage ;  so  we  started,  and  rambled  through 
the  woods  for  more  than  two  miles  over  bramble 
and  briar,  and  at  last  came  to  this  much-celebrated 
spot,  in  a  very  lonely  part  of  the  wood,  which  had 
been  the  scene  of  so  many  courtships,  and  romantic  • 
adventures  ;  which  had  been  written  in  verse,  and 
meted  in  song.  We  sat  down  by  the  side  of  the 
large  rock,  where  many  had  whispered  before  us, 
and  tried  to  feel  very  sentimental. 

The  trees  in  our  immediate  presence,  were  carved 
with  names  and  initials,  some  of  which  the  bark  had 
overgrown,  and  many  were  unintelligible.  One  of 
the  gentlemen  with  us  was  very  conversant  with  all 
the  technicalities  of  the  spot,  having  been  here 
frequently  before;  and  gave  as  many  interesting 
descriptions  of  the  persons  who  had  figured  here  at 
various  times,  with  many  amusing  details* 

He  asked  us  if  we  had  never  heard  the  story  of 
the  Count :  he  said  it  was  a  romance  in  real  life — 

" 


96  WHITE  XSULPHUK    PAPERS. 

a  story  of  every  day — and  that  he  had  been  an  eye- 
witness to  many  of  the  leading  incidents  of  the 
drama. 

About  four  years  ago,  continued  he,rthere  came 
to  the  White  Sulphur,  during  the  most  fashionable 
season,  an  elderly  lady  and  her  daughter,  from  the 
north.  The  daughter  was  reputed  wealthy,  too 
wealthy  for  men  of  moderate  pretensions  to  make 
their  advances,  and  none  sought  an  introduction; 
and  even  if  they  wished  it,  who  knew  them?  They 
never  came  to  the  Jball  room,  and  their  only  escort 
appeared  to  be  a  foreign  Count — he  attended  them 
to  their  meals,  and  in  their  walks;  and  while  in  public, 
his  attention  was  most  marked  to  the  mother ;  in 
the  sylvan  shades,  it  was  said,  he  was  most  fasci- 
nated with  the  young  lady. 

A  gayer  company  of  some  four  hundred  had  never 
perhaps  assembled,  than  was  at  the  White  Sulphur 
during  the  summer  of  183—.  The  belles  were  many 
and  beautiful,  the  balls  were  crowded,  and  the  green 
lawn  each  evening  presented  a  fairy  scene,  in  groups 
of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  straying  like  gypsying  par- 
ties through  the  walks  and  groves,  and  the  delightful 
interchanges  of  visits  from  one  bright  cottage  to 
another,  rendered  a  month  of  such  enjoyment,  an 
eve  of  real  pleasure  in  the  life  of  a  visitor.  Almost 
the  entire  company  seemed  in  their  social  inter- 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  97 

course,  as  though  they  all  belonged  to  the  same 
household,  or  had  been  acquainted  for  years. 

There  were  three  visitors,  the  two  ladies  and  the 
Count,  who  kept  aloof,  and  had  no  social  intermin- 
gling with  the  rest.  They  had  spent  over  a  fortnight 
at  the  Springs,  without  making  scarcely  a  single 
acquaintance.  Conduct  so  marked,  could  not  fail, 
in  such  a  company,  to  draw  forth  remarks  and  sur- 
mises. The  Count  was  still  assiduous  in  his  atten- 
tions to  the  daughter.  They  would  stroll  to  'Lover's 
Retreat'  in  the  evening,  and  sing  duets  over  the 
piano,  when  no  one  was  present. 

It  was  rumored  they  were  engaged,  and  many 
said  that  while  the  mother  liked  the  Count  for  his 
title,  the  Count  courted  the  daughter  for  her  wealth. 
They  4iad  been  here  about  three  weeks,  when  the 
young  lady,  one  evening,  made  her  first  appearance 
in  the  ball  room.  Its  attractions  had  been  thrown 
out  to  her  by  a  gentleman  who,  by  some  means,  had 
made  her  acquaintance,  and  she  had  been  prevailed 
on  to  attend.  She  was  much  admired  for  her  figure 
and  grace,  and  she  danced  and  enjoyed  herself  very 
much.  Many  gentlemen  claimed  an  introduction ; 
she  was  courted,  and  surrounded — she  became  a 
Belle.  Many  gallants  were  in  her  train  next  day, 
while  the  poor  Count  was  evidently  thrown  in  the 
back  ground. 

9 


98  WHITE     SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

It  was  at  this  time,  (continued  B.)  that  I  became 
acquainted  with  the  Count,  and  found  him  a  very 
clever  person ;  he  was  evidently  very  much  in  love, 
and  almost  distracted  at  the  growing  coolness  of  the 
lady. 

It  was  said,  that  she  never  really  encouraged  his 
attentions,  and  that  but  for  the  mother,  she  would 
have  avoided  a  frequent  intercourse,  and  knowing 
no  one  at  the  time,  she  was  somewhat  dependant  on 
him. 

A  few  weeks  went  by,  the  lady  still  a  Belle,  and 
the  Count  evidently  neglected. 

The  season  passed,  and  the  party  left  the  Springs. 
On  their  arrival  at  Philadelphia,  at  a  boarding  house, 
whither  the  Count  followed,  (it  was  at  a  boarding 
house  where  he  had  first  seen  her.) — The  lady  wrote 
him  a  letter,  forbidding  his  further  visits  or  atten- 
tions. The  next  morning,  the  Count  was  dead — he 
had  taken  laudanum  on  the  night,  he  received  the 
letter  discarding  him,  and  had  dreamed  away  exis- 
tence. 


-Nothing  in  his  life 


Became  him  like  the  leaving  it :  he  died 
As  one  that  had  been  studied  in  his  death 
To  throw  away,  the  dearest  thing  he  owned, 
As  'twere  a  careless  trifle." 


•  .       «      - 

*  -  .  **   v 

JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  99 

Wednesday,  -  . 

Our  kind  friend,  Mr.  -  ,  has  been  to  visit  us 
this  morning,  bringing  with  him  his  rods  and  fishing 
tackle,  and  leaving  for  us  a  basket  of  little  delicacies 
which  he  had  caught  in  the  creek.     He  says  he 
came  to  the  Springs,  determined  to  enjoy  himse  If  in 
his  own  way,  and  he  spends  his  mornings  in  ram- 
bling and  angling,  and  collecting  shells  and  fossils 
from  the  banks  of  the  many  streams,  and  exploring 
the  curiosities  of  the  neighbourhood.  He  says  there 
are  glades,  and  tumbling  cataracts,  and  cascades, 
and  shady  retreats  all  around,  that  none  of  us  gay 
people  ever  visit  or  hear  of,  and  that  on  the  top  of 
one  of  the  mountains  directly  over  us,  is  a  glassy 
lake  where  the  wild  deer  come  to  drink  at  all  hours. 
He  visits  the  old  men  in  the  mountains,  some  of 
them  the  original  settlers,  who  give  him  the  history 
of  the  country,  and  he  learns  from  them  many 
curious  stories. 

He  has  been  prevailing  on  us  to  accompany  him 
in  one  of  his  morning  tours,  and  gather  wild  flowers, 
and  has  promised  C  --  to  make  her  a  collection 
of  pretty  butterflies.  He  says  he  hears  that  we  are 
great  Belles,  and  while  other  gentlemen  dance  with 
us,  he'll  fish  for  us.  He  tells  us,  moreover,  that  the 
White  Sulphur  water  is  very  serviceable  to  the 
teeth,  and  that  the  frequent  use  of  it  has  a  wonderful 
effect  in  improving  the  complexion. 


100  WHITE    SULPHUE    PAPERS. 

Friday,  . 

A  travelling  museum  has  been  in  the  neighbour- 
hood for  some  days,  which  a  great  many  have  been 
to  see.  This  evening,  when  the  company  had  gone 

to  tea,  C.  and  I.  and  Aunt,  and  Mr.  went  to 

make  it  a  visit,  feeling  inclined  for  novelty  in  any 
shape.  There  were  two  large  wagons  painted  red, 
and  joined  together,  making  two  apartments,  where 
the  curiosities  were  displayed  in  their  grotesque 
order.  It  was  Peale's  museum  in  miniature,  for 
they  appeared  to  have  a  little  of  every  thing  curious, 
wolves,  bears,  wax  figures,  Indian  dresses  and 
arrows,  a  large  crocodile,  shells,  minerals,  and  many 
strings  of  rattles. 

"  Among  the  many  beautifully  prepared  birds,  was 
a  large  white  Albatross,  of  rare  size,  the  first  we 
had  ever  seen.  The  poet  Coleridge  has  immortal- 
ized this  bird,  and  we  looked  upon  it  with  more 
interest  than  any  thing  in  the  collection.  The  keeper 
gave  us  most  glowing  and  fancy  descriptions  of  all 
the  wonders  of  his  cabinet.  One  of  the  wax  figure!? 
represented  Alexander  Selkirk,  and  he  assured  us, 
that  the  rusty  pistol  in  his  hand  was  the  very  same 
which  this  celebrated  personage  had  used  while  in 
solitude  on  the  island. 

We  left  the  Museum,  and  continued  our  stroll  to 
the  top  of  the  hill,  near  the  Colonnade,  where  we 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  101 

joined  the  promenaders,  who  had  returned  from  tea, 
and  were  enjoying  the  fine  views  which  is  here  had 
at  sunset. 

We  came  home,  where  C —  found  a  bouquet  filled 
with  ambrosia  and  mignionette,  which  had  been 
sent  to  her,  and  which  determined  her  to  go  to  the 
ball  this  evening  ;  although  -to-morrow  will  be  the 
day  of  the  great  pic-nic. 

LINES    TO    THE    ALBATROSS. 

Bird  of  the  light  and  snowy  wing ! 

Fair  harbinger  of  cheer ! — 
Whither  now,  from  thy  wandering, 

Say,  Albatross !  why  here  1 

Thy  home  is  in  the  far  off  isles, 

Beyond  the  southern  sea, 
In  lands  where  summer  never  smiles ; 

No  visitant  but  thee. 
*t 

Where  hast  thou  been  ? — what  hast  thou  seen ! 

In  crossing  o'er  the  main, 
When  floating  like  an  airy  queen, 

Above  the  winds  and  rain. 

When  didst  thou  live  1 — where  is  thy  mate  ? 

What  sailor  captured  thee  * 
While  thou  wert  in  the  air  elate, 

With  pinions  broad  and  free. 


4, 

4 


102  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

I  follow  thee,  thro'  ether  sky, 

I  am  with  thee  and  thine ; 
I  see  thee  from  the  dolphin  fly, 

And  leave  the  fisher's  line. 

I  live  with  thee — thro'  many  days 

Of  storm  and  tempest  loud, — 
And  hear  thee  sing  thy  evening  lays 

Above  the  flapping  shroud. 

£" 
I  hear  thy  scream  of  wildest  note, — 

A  rifted  wreck  goes  by ; 
Thy  dirge  is  o'er  a  lifeless  boat, 

The  sea  gives  up  a  sigh. 

Proud  bird !  thou  hast  been  sailing  long 

All  over  sea  and  shore, 
But  none  again  will  hear  thy  song, 
Thy  wing  will  tire  no  more. 

What  brought  thee  death  I  do  not  know, 

But  Albatross.    I  fear 
It  reach'd  thee  from  some  whizzing  bow 

Of  ancient  Mariner.      -« 

Monday, . 

This  morning  being  the  one  fixed  on  for  the  great 
pic-nic,  which  had  been  in  agitation  for  the  last 
week,  many  an  anxious  eye  was  turned  towards 
the  sky  to  ascertain  if  it  was  favourable  to  our 
wishes  and  the  proposed  amusement  of  the  day. 


JOURNAL    OP    A    LADY.  103 

All  above,  gave  promise  of  the  full  enjoyment  hoped 
for  below.  Contrary  to  the  usual  custom,  there 
was  no  stopping  after  breakfast  to  chat  in  the  ball 
room,  nor  loitering  at  the  Spring  or  on  the  walk,  but 
all  (the  ladies)  hastily  retreated  to  their  cabins  to 
change  their  morning  costume,  and  decide  upon  one 
more  becoming  the  day's  excursion.  Dresses,  that 
had  long  been  imprisoned  in  the  imperial,  were  now 
brought  out,  to  do  honor  to  the  occasion.  As  each 
lady  had  been  requested  to  don  her  favourite  colour, 
no  little  hesitation  ensued  as  to  the  adoption  of  blue, 

pink,  green,  &c.     Even  good  old  Mrs. entered 

into  the  excitement,  and  emancipated  from  the  band 
box,  a  new  blonde  cap,  that  had  been  carefully  put 
by  in  reservation  for  the  President's  reception. 

We  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  depart  at  an  early 
hour  the  wagon,  containing  the  numerous  refresh- 
ments, and  about  ten  o'clock,  the  sound  of  many 
carriages  approaching  the  different  rows  to  receive 
their  destined  inmates — the  cries  of  children  at  being 
left  behind — the  calling  of  Mamas  for  their  daugh- 
ters, who  having  been  ready  for  the  last  half  hour, 
were  now  making  sure,  at  their  glasses,  of  their 
bonnets  being  tied,  with  a  due  regard  to  a  becoming 
inclination  to  their  left  side,  their  ringlets  being  just 
enough  out  of  curl  to  look  interesting ;  and  the  merry 
laugh  of  these  as  returning  with  renewed  confidence, 


104  WHITE    SULPHUE    PAPERS. 

they  jumped  gayly  into  the  carriage,  family  barouche 
—or  more  exclussive  buggy,  all  announced  the  sig- 
nal of  departure,  and  in  obedience  to  its  call,  we 
were  every  one  on  our  way  to  the  scene  of  enchant- 
ment, by  eleven  o'clock. 

Every  description  of  vehicle  on  the  place  was  put 
in  requisition;  even  an  old  sleigh  was  allowed  to 
remain  stationary  only  because  wheels  could  not  be 
found  to  attach  to  it.  We  followed  the  Lewisburg 
road,  as  far  as  Greenbriar  mountain,  then  diverging 
suddenly,  we  found  ourselves  free  from  dust,  and 
pursuing  a  winding  road  through  the  woods;  at 
about  twelve  o'clock,  we  were  brought  within  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  our  destination ;  this  last  part  of 
pur  jaunt  we  were  to  make  on  foot,  much  to  the 
distress  of  Miss  Lilly,  who  never  having  been  on  a 
pic-nic  in  the  mountains,  picturing  to  herself  a  smooth 
turf  and  a  dance  on  the  green,  had  ventured  out  in 
satin  shoes,  which  were  but  little  calculated  to  en- 
counter the  stones,  logs,  and  brambles  which  we 
were  now  crossing  at  every  step. 

The  spot  selected  for  our  rendezvous  was  a  large 
green,  some  yards  in  extent,  enclosed  on  one  side  by 
abrupt  and  overhanging  rocks  at  whose  base,  bub- 
bled a  clear  and  beautiful  spring,  and  precluded 
from  the  road  by  rows  of  thick  branching  trees. 
Around  were  thrown  immense  logs  of  trees,  which 


JOURNAL    OP    A    LADY.  105 

were  to  serve  us  as  seats,  and  the  wild  rose  and 
honey-suckle  were  growing  in  the  vicinity. 

A  table  of  rude  planks  had  been  hastily  put  toge- 
ther, on  which  the  servants  were  busily  employed 
in  laying  the  cloth,  and  making  the  necessary  prepa- 
rations for  our  dejeuner  a  la  forchette.  And  as  an 
hour  would  elapse  before  their  arrangements  would 
be  completed,  the  merriest  of  us  determined  to 
employ  our  time  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  through 
the  neighbouring  woods. 

We  wandered  for  half  an  hour,  penetrating  the 
darkest  and  most  romantic  looking  glades,  and 
making  bouquets  and  wreaths  of  the  wild  flowers. 
Our  progress  at  one  time  was  somewhat  retarded 
oy  a  broad  stream,  which  required  no  little  activity 

to  clear.  Miss  J being  somewhat  timid,  Mr. 

gallantly  caught  her  up  in  his  arms,  and  bore 

her  across,  amid  the  bravos  of  the  gentlemen,  and 
the  approving  smiles  of  the  ladies. 

Upon  our  return,  we  found  the  rest  of  the  com- 
pany in  high  glee,  and  awaiting  our  reappearance. 
The  collation  had  by  this  time  been  spread,  and  very 
soon  the  champaigne  was  circulating,  and  merriment 
prevailed,  while  the  band  of  music,  stationed  in  the 
trees  at  a  little  distance,  played  their  sweetest  tunes, 
though  then"  sounds  were  nearly  lost  in  the  peals  of 
our  own  laughter  and  delight.  Chairs  being  scarce, 


-        WHITE     SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

many  preferred  taking  their  cold  chicken  lete  a  tete 
on  a  log,  or  forming  a  partie  carree  on  some  neigh- 
bouring stumps  made  comfortable  seats,  by  the  gen- 
tlemen converting  their  cloaks  into  cushions.  Mr. 
,  of  Virginia,  sung  his  charming  songs,  accom- 
panied by  his  guitar,  his  example  was  followed  by 
several  of  the  company,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  and 
four  hours  went  by  gaily  and  swiftly. 

The  younger  portion  were  somewhat  startled  at 
being  told  that  it  was  time  to  go.  Some  one  of  the 
party  had  a  London  paper,  printed  in  gold  letters, 
giving  an  account  of  the  late  coronation,  and  before 

we  departed,  at  the  suggestion  of  Mr. ,  we 

all  drank,  in  champaigne,  the  health  of  Queen 
Victoria ! 

We  arrived  at  the  Springs  in  fine  time  for  the  ball, 
which  passed  off  in  uncommon  brilliancy.  Miss 
Lilly's  satin  slipper  came  into  play,  with  much  more 
effect  than  in  our  morning's  ramble,  and  she  enjoyed 
her  dance  to  the  utmost,  though  it  was  not  on  a 
green  turf,  and  after  a  shepherd's  pipe, 

Tuesday , . 

The  pic-nic  of  yesterday,  and  the  ball  of  last  night, 
have  been  all  the  talk  to-day.  The  ball  was  uncom- 
monly brilliant  and  the  dancer's  were  gay  and  spi- 
rited. The  L 's  were  to  have  left  this  morning 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY. 

and  this  was  their  farewell  ball ;   we  lose  at  their 

*  ~4+ 

departure  some  of  our  most  esteemed  acquaintances, 

who  have  joined  with  us  in  all  our  sports  for  the  last 
six  weeks.  This  is  one  of  the  horrors  of  a  watering 
place :  the  parting  with  friends  with  whom  we  have 
been  thrown  together  in  so  many  intimate  ways 
during  the  season,  and  friendships  thus  formed  by 
persons  who  are  strangers  on  their  first  meeting,  are 
generally  of  the  most  agreeable  and  endearing  kind, 
and  often  the  most  lasting. 

We  have  had  much  of  the  scene  of  la'st  night  be- 
fore us,  in  our  cabin  this  morning,  from  the  amuse- 

ing  descriptions  of  persons  and  things,  by  ? . 

He  is  a  great  caricaturist,  but  is  very  good  natured. 
This  is  a  talent  which  is  entertaining  at  :'D;OS,  when 
not  too  far  indulged  in,  or  too  much  <'n<  "uraged. 
He  says  there  was  no  room  for  him  to  dam-**,  so  he 
took  his  station  by  the  piano  as  an  observer. 

He  described  all  the  elderly  ladies  seated  round 
the  room  on  the  settees,  with  their  blonde  caps,  giv- 
ing countenance  to  the  dance,  and  with  the  double 
view  of  engaging  the  attention  of  a  distinguished 
Bachelor.  The  young  women  who  stand  in  each 
recess  in  groups,  knowing  no  partner,  and  not  danc- 
ing, he  styles  as  wall-flowers.  He  decries  most  vehe- 
mently against  gentlemen  carrying  then*  hats  in  the 
cotillion,  as  a  mark  of  indifference  to  their  partners 


108  WHITE «ULPHUR    PAPERS. 

and  the  other  dancers.  And  he  says  that  the  country 
beaus  who  appear  with  their  black  stocks  and  big 
shoes  eat  up  all  the  refreshments.  We  never  knew 
before,  that  the  entertainments  which  are  so  abun- 
dantly supplied  at  the  balls,  is  afforded  by  the  liber- 
ality of  the  proprietors.  Waiters  are  handed  during 
all  the  evening  with  wine  and  other  inviting  nic-nacs. 

In  the  great  variety  of  dressing  herf,  and  in  the 
eccentricities  of  taste,  many  ladies  of  very  small 

stature  wear  feathers  and  turbans,  which  P 

describes  as  very  unbecoming. 

He  thinks  it  requires  a  woman  of  very  fine  figure 
and  appearance  to  do  credit,  to  a^eather  or  a  tur- 
ban. In  alluding  to  a  young  lady  wh$  persists  in 
wearing  a  red  spencer  every  night;  he  assured  us 
that  it  was  not  the  damsel's  fault-»-that  she  was  quite 
uneasy  in  her  dress,  and  averse  to  coming  to  the 
balls,  but  that  her  grandma  each  evening  after  tea, 
fastens  on  her  red  jacket,  and  bids  her  go  forth  to 
subdue  and  make  her  fortune. 

He  told  us,  our  remarks  on  dress,  reminded  him  of 
having  oncfe  been  at  an  election  ball  at  a  tavern 
somewhere  in  Maryland,  where  he  was  introduced 
to  the  daughter  of  the  host,  a  pretty  sprightly  girl ; 
that  when  he  first  saw  her  she  was  dressed  in  white, 
— and  at  the  close  of  every  two  sets  of  cotillions, 
she  would  disappear,  and  reappear  in  a  new  color. 


JOURNAL    OP    A    LADY.  109 

He  had  seen  her  in  white,  pink,  blue,  green,  and  yel- 
low, and  upon  complimenting  her  on  her  last  appear- 
ance, she  remarked  that  "she  had  only  made  six 
changes,  that  there  was  one  more  to  come,  and  then 
she  should  shine." 

Y-  * 

Thursday,  -  . 

We  have  been  occupied  this  morning  in  pressing 
flowers,  many  of  them  wild  ones,  which  grow  in 
such  luxuriance  here,  and  some  of  rare  beauty.  We 
will  take  them  home,  and  they  will  serve  to  remind 
us  at  some  future  day,  of  our  present  enjoyments  and 
pleasures. 

Some  several  years  hence  they  will  look  as  fresh 
as  ever,  and  the  rose  leaves  will  have  a  sweeter  per- 
fume than  now  ;  while  our  faces  may  be  withered 
and  we  no  no  longer  beautiful.  Horrid  thought,— 
but  nevertheless  'tis  true.  Some  of  these  flowers 
have  been  presents  to  us  from  friends  we  may  never 
see  again,  and  some  we  have  gathered  on  sunny 
mornings  in  the  woods,  when  all  around  us  was 
bright  and  beautiful,  and  gay  hearts  accompanied 
us. 

They  will  remain  here  in  their  imprisoned  sheets, 
silent  hut  speaking  memorials  of  days  that  were  fra- 
grant to  us. 


10 


110  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

The  most  minute  incidents  of  our  life,  often  lead  to 
the  most  important  results  in  our  after  dealings,  and 
those  whose  lives  are  most  crowded  with  strongly 
marked  events,  can  generally  trace  their  origin  to 
some  trifling  circumstance,  hardly  chronicled  in  the 
memory  on  the  occurrence,  and  that  would  quickly 
fade  from  the  mind  if  they  were  not  really  the  start- 
ing links  in  the  great  chain  of  human  events. 

How  often  has  a  kind  look  given  the  first  impulse 
to  the  quick  throb  of  love  so  ever  ready  to  vibrate 
in  the  human  heart.  How  often  has  a  leaf  been  the 
mute  though  eloquent  messenger  of  communicating 
tender  thoughts  from  heart  to  heart,  and  finally 
united  in  destiny,  the  giver  and  receiver.  How  of- 
ten too  alas !  has  the  slightest  incidents  separated 
for  ever,  those  who  but  for  its  occurrence,  would 
have  united  in  one,  like  two  summer  clouds ;  or 
moved  in  unison  like  the  meeting  of  two  mountain 
streams. 

. August  25th. 

The  gentlemen  have  all  gone  to  a  great  dinner 
given  to  the  President,  at  the  Greenbriar  bridgeto-day , 
and  the  ladies  are  left  entirely  to  themselves.  I 

sent  some  English  newspapers  to  Mrs. this 

morning,  which  we  had  received  from  New  York. 
She  is  very  fond  of  such  reading,  and  though  no  one 
line  escapes  her  vigilance,  her  memory  is  so  short, 


JOURNAL    OP    A    LADY.  Ill 

•  *W* ' 
or  so  little  troubled  with  what  she  reads,  that  you 

may  send  her  the  same  journal  three  times  over, 
and  she  will  peruse  it  as  eagerly  as  at  first.  This  is 
the  last  week  in  August,  and  many  talk  of  leaving 
very  soon.  A  large  number  of  our  acquaintances 
are  only  waiting  for  rain.  Our  Baltimore  friends 
in  Carolina  Row,  leave  us  to-morrow.  They  will 
remain  one  week  at  the  Sweet  Springs,  then  to  the 
Warm — the  great  gathering  place  at  the  close  of  the 
season,  and  then  home. 

As  the  hour  of  parting  and  the  close  of  the  season 
draw  near,  we  all  begin  to  feel  a  little  melancholy, 
but  there  must  be  an  end  to  all  pleasure,  and  why 
should  we  grieve,  who  have  run  through  such  a 
season  of  delight. 

Thanks  to  some  Troubadours  for  a  sweet  seren- 
ade last  night. 

Sept.  4. 

More  than  two  hundred  persons,  nearly  one  half 
of  our  company,  will  leave  here  by  Saturday,  and 
in  another  week  there  will  not  perhaps  be  one  hun- 
dred at  the  White  Sulphur.  We  remain  near  two 
weeks  longer.  We  understand  from  those  who  have 
experienced  it,  that  the  latter  part  of  September  is 
the  most  pleasant  period  in  the  mountains,  and  that 
during  the  month  of  October,  they  have  here,  the 

finest  Indian  Summer,  which  continues  until  near 

» 


112  WfllTE    SULPHUR   PAPERS. 

Christmas.     Most  persons  leave  here  too  soon.     On 

-  Jv* 

the  general  day  of  breaking  up,  the  first  Monday  in 
September ;  all  follow,  save  a  few  Southern  families, 
and  some  of  the  lovers  of  nature. 

The  President  is  at  the  Sweet  Springs,  and  we 
hear  the  place  is  crowded  with  company. 

The  ladies  of  our  party,  and  a  few  of  our  friends, 
are  going  on  a  serenading  expedition  to  night. 

September  10. 

***** 

Another  week  gone,  and  nearly  all  our  friends 
have  departed,  we  have  been  taking  leave  during 
that  time — each  morning  and  evening  with  tears  in 
our  eyes  of  our  many  acquaintances.  The  S's.  were 
the  last  to  leave  us  to-day,  as  their  carriage  drove 
round  by  Carolina  Row,  the  gentlemen  and  nearly 
all  the  company  present  waved  their  handkerchiefs, 
and  they  departed  with  universal  regret.  We  all 
felt  lonely  for  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

Several  entire  rows  are  closed ;  and  the  lawn  is 
quite  silent.  Mr.  Anderson  is  not  so  busy  now,  he 
has  called  at  our  cabin  several  times  in  the  last  few 
days,  to  know  if  we  wanted  a  chair  or  a  second 
table. 

The  ball  room  is  deserted ;  we  formed  but  one 
cotillion  last  evening,  and  the  musicians  seemed  quite 
out  of  spirits. 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY.  113 

The  evenings  are  now  most  beautiful  for  walking 
&,nd  driving. 

I  took  a  solitary  walk  this  evening  to  the  top  of 
the  hill,  near  the  Colonnade,  and  sat  down,  and  thought 
of  all  that  had  passed  since  our  first  arrival  at  the 
Springs.  It  was  at  the  time  of  sunset,  and  the  golden 
hues  were  tinging  the  green  trees  of  the  moun- 
tains ;  the  air  was  soft — the  sky  unclouded ;  singu- 
lar feelings  came  over  me,  and  I  fell  into  a  dreaming 
reverie. 

Are  there  not  times  ?  say  Mrs.  Jamieson — "  when 
we  turn  with  indifference  from  the  finest  picture  of 
nature — the  most  improving  book — the  most  amusing 
poem ;  and  when  the  very  commonest  and  every 
day  beauties  of  nature,  a  soft  evening,  a  lovely  land- 
scape, the  moon  riding  in  her  glory  through  a  cloud- 
ed sky,  without  forcing  or  asking  our  attention  sink 
into  our  hearts  ?" 

I  thought  of  the  many  bright  faces,  and  gay 
hearts,  with  whom  we  had  mingled  this  summer — 
the  loves,  and  the  courtships — and  the  pleasures  of 
each  passing  day.  All  were  now  gone.  The  com- 
pany had  separated  for  their  respective  homes : 
Some  had  come,  fresh,  and  alive  for  novelty  and 
enjoyment,  and  had  left  delighted:  Some  with  hearts 
beating  with  love,  and  anxious  for  conquest,  had  gone 
away  disappointed.  Some  who  had  been  more  for- 
10  •> 


114  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

tunate  in  their  feelings,  and  attachments ;  and  in  the 
attentions  they  had  received,  had  left,  pleased,  and 

anticipating  future  happiness. 

*  #  #  *  * 

*  *  *  *  * 

September  12. 

We  have  had  a  letter  from  the  Warm  Springs, 
the  place  is  thronging  with  company,  and  they  all 
knowing  each  other,  enjoy  themselves  exceedingly. 
The  ball  room  we  hear  is  very  brilliant,  and  all  are 
in  the  finest  spirits. 

They  make  excursione  there,  during  the  evening, 
to  the  Warm  Spring  Rock,  to  the  top  of  which  a 
Virginia  lady  once  ascended  on  horseback  ;  where 
they  the  eye  feasted,  and  the  soul  drink  in  inspiration 
from  the  glorious  beauties  of  the  surrounding 
scenery. 

Near  the  Warm  Springs  also,  is  a  tumbling  cata- 
ract, of  more  than  two  hundred  feet  in  fall,  which 
but  few  have  ever  visited.  We  shall  certainly  go 
there  on  our  return. 

We  are  to  leave  the  White  Sulphur  to-morrow 
morning  after  breakfast.  We  have  been  round  to 
take  leave  of  all  who  are  here.  We  have  visited 
for  the  last  time,  this  evening,  each  spot  made  dear 


JOURNAL    OF    A    LADY. 


to  us  from  association  ;  and  taken  a  lingering  fare- 
well look  of  them  ail. 

We  looked  in  at  the  ball  room  at  nine  o'clock. 
There  were  but  four  ladies  present,  and  the  music 
was  endeavouring  in  vain  to  call  forth  the  spirit  of 
the  dance. 

I  am  afraid  te  read  to  night  anything  what  I  have 
heretofore  written  in  my  journal.  I  have  been  re- 
creant to  my  intention ;  have  put  down  but  half  what 
I  should ;  and  neglected  to  insert  many  better  things, 
Hark,  there  is  music ;  'tis  a  farewell  serenade  be- 
neath our  window.  They  are  playing  and  singing 
"  Home,  sweet  home." 

** 
No  whisper  ! — hear 

That  soft,  sweet  song, 

To  me  most  dear. 

I've  lov'd  it  long. 
It  comes  to  me  at  the  silent  night, 
And  it  fills  the  soul  with  calm  delight. 

I've  heard  that  strain 

In  times  before, 

Breathe  it  again ; 

I'll  ask  no  more. 

My  heart  goes  back — and  I  long  to  roam, 
In  the  garden  paths  of  my  own  home. 


116  WHITE   SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

Thursday,  Sept.  13, . 

We  have  breakfasted.  Our  carriages  are  at  the 
door,  and  we  will  leave  it  in  a  few  minutes.  Our 
friends  are  in  the  piazza,  come  to  say  "  Good  bye." 
These  are  the  last  lines  I  shall  write  in  my  journal, 
and  I  have  but  one  moment  more.  The  maid  who 
is  strapping  my  trunk,  is  almost  in  tears ;  and  says 
she  is  sorry  we  are  going. 

We  are  called.  I  must  conclude.  Farewell, 
White  Sulphur.  Farewell  to  thy  scenes  and  thy 
pleasures,  and  thy  oak  shades,  and  thy  beautiful 
fountain ;  farewell  to  Paradise  Row,  and  the  Gothic 
cottage,  and  the  Colonnade.  Good  bye,  Mr.  Ander- 
son ;  good  bye,  Davy,  Duncan.  Farewell  to  you 
all! 


THE  STORY  OF  A  CRUTCH. 


119 

••-V;,  , 


CHAR  X. 


THE    STORY    OF    A    CRUTCH. 


They  call  me  an  old  crutch  now.  I  don't  know 
what  I  may  be  hereafter ;  but  I  too  dearly  remem- 
ber what  I  have  been.  I  wish  I  was  back  in  my 
primitive  days  again,  showering  down  acorns  from 
the  old  oak  on  the  little  boys,  and  where  the  wild 
pigeons  came  twice  a  year  and  made  love  on  the 
branches,  and  told  of  the  sights  they  had  seen  in 
other  places  far  away.  Those  were  happy  times  V 
there's  pleasure  in  the  woods. 

It  was  an  evil  hour  when  the  chopper  came,  and 
with  his  axe  felled  the  lofty  pride  of  the  forest — so 
all  used  to  call  our  tree  as  they  passed.  I  remember 
having  been  carried  along  with  other  timber  to  the 
navy  yard  at  Philadelphia,  where  I  remained  for 
some  time.  Parts  of  our  old  parent  went  off  to  sea 
in  ships ;  but  I  was  thrown  by,  being  a  small  affair, 


120  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

among  the  waste  wood.  When,  one  day,  oh !  horror 
of  horrors !  I  was  manufactured  into  a  crutch,  for  an 
invalid  sailor,  at  the  marine  hospital. 

My  master  had  been  in  the  wars  in  early  life,  and 
had  fought  in  the  battles  of  his  country  on  lake  Erie, 
where  he  had  been  slightly  wounded,  and  now  was 
a  pensioned  sufferer  on  the  government.  He  was  a 
right  good  old  man;  but,  whenever  he  got  excited, 
fighting  over  the  last  action,  which  he  did  to  every 
new  comer,  he  would  bring  me  down  on  the  stone 
pavement,  or  iron  railing,  or  some  other  hard  sub- 
stance, and  I  became  near  being  banged  to  a  splinter ; 
then  it  was  that  I  thought  of  the  pigeons,  and  the 
acorns,  and  wished  that  I  had  been  sent  to  sea  with 
mast  and  spar. 

My  old  master  at  length  took  sick,  and  was  con- 
fined to  his  straw  bed  for  some  months;  during 
which  time,  I  had  some  respite  in  walking,  but  was 
used  as  a  call-boy,  by  pounding  the  floor  twenty 
times  a  day.  I  was  demanded  one  morning,  in  a 
case  of  necessity,  for  an  officer  who  came  to  the 
hospital  with  a  fractured  leg,  and  having  been  orna- 
mented with  a  red  cushion  at  top,  and  sawed  off  two 
inches  below,  (no  end  to  my  sufferings,)  I  became 
the  supporter  of  dignity  with  an  epaulet. 

I  was  not  confined,  however,  to  the  precincts  of 
the  sailors'  enclosure  any  more,  but  made  occasional 


STORY    OF    A    CRUTCH.  121 

excursions  with  my  new  master,  who  was  fast 
recovering,  into  the  city,  and  among  the  fashions  of 
Chestnut-street. 

The  lieutenant  soon  became  as  tired  of  his  quar- 
ters as  I  was,  and  to  our  gratification,  was  invited 
by  a  relation  to  remain  in  the  city.  I  soon  parted 
from  him,  however,  for,  recovering  from  his  wound, 
he  had  no  further  service  for  me,  and  he  made  me 
a  present  to  an  old  friend,  a  sea  captain,  who  had 
just  returned  in  a  merchantman  from  a  long  cruise, 
and  was  confined  with  the  gout  at  the  City  hotel, 
where  I  was  condemned  to  undergo  all  the  tortures 
of  his  bad  temper.  My  master  would  sit  in  his  room 
at  night,  drinking  brandy  and  water,  and,  stirring  me 
around  in  the  fire,  would  say,  "  I'll  burn  my  crutch  if 
I  don't  have  vengeance."  He  always  swore  by  his 
crutch. 

One  night  he  took  it  into  his  head  that  he  would 
go  to  the  theatre ;  whilst  there,  in  the  saloon,  taking 
imaginary  offence  from  the  remark  of  some  by-stand- 
er,  he  raised  me,  and  struck  the  gentleman  over  the 
head ;  and,  in  the  disturbance  and  row  that  followed, 
crutch  and  captain  were  taken  to  the  watch-house 
forthwith.  Here,  while  the  evidence  was  being  given, 
I  was  handled  by  watchmen,  and  gazed  at  by 
the  crowd;  the  captain  all  the  time  swearing  like  a 
trooper.  Bail  was  given,  and  we  were  released  from 
11 


122  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

the  wretched  hole.  The  captain  never  left  his  room 
after  that  night ;  he  went  off  suddenly,  very  shortly 
afterwards,  with  an  apoplectic  fit,  brought  on  by  hard 
drink. 

In  a  few  days  I  was  carried,  along  with  the  effects 
of  my  late  owner,  to  auction,  and  sold,  ay  sold,  for 
a  less  sum  than  was  given  for  the  brass  tacks  in  my 
cushion. 

I  was  bought  by  a  physician,  who  wanted  me  for 
a  patient  that  had  been  suffering  a  long  time  with 
a  complication  of  diseases,  and  with  the  most  acute 
pains  in  his  limbs.  He  had  tried  e'^rery  remedy 
recommended  by  the  faculty,  and  visited  many  of 
the  principal  watering  places,  without  effect.  I  am 
now  with  this  gentleman,  a  man  of  large  fortune 
and  taste ;  but  who  is  deprived  of  every  enjoyment 
on  account  of  his  health.  . 

He  has  at  last  been  recommended  by  some  wise 
person  to  bathe  in  the  waters  of  the  Hot  Springs,  in 
Virginia ;  and  thither  we  depart  to-morrow  morning. 
I  am  delighted  at  this ;  for,  ever  since  the  fracas  at 
the  theatre,  and  the  scene  at  the  watch-house,  I  have 
been  anxious  to  leave  this  place,  and  get  among 
new  people  and  scenes. 


»  "*^- 


STORY    OF    A    CRUTCH.  133 

•         •$• 
PART   II. 

*• 

It  is  related  that  a  gentleman  came  to  the  Hot 
Springs  from  the  north,  in  a  very  low  state  of  health; 
he  came  there  to  bathe,  but  being  too  feeble  to  pro- 
ceed as  far  as  the  White  Sulphur,  to  drink  those 
waters  preparatory  to  using  the  bath,  they  were 
brought  fresh  to  him  regularly  every  morning*  at 
some  expense,  from  that  place.  In  a  week  or  two 
he  commenced  bathing,  and  tried  them  all — the 
spout-bath,  the  boiler,  and  the  pleasure-bath ;  and 
was  soon  able  to  take  part  in  the  raging  amusements 
of  the  place — chess  and  backgammon;  and  he 
looked  forward  very  anxiously  to  the  day  when  he 
migh  join  the  dancers  at  the  other  Springs.  He  was 
often  tempted,  as  it  was,  to  ride  over  to  the  Warm, 
and  look  in  on  the  ball-room,  but  he  was  ashamed 
of  his  crutch  in  such  company ;  and  supported  by 
this  faithful  companion  under  his  right  shoulder,  he  v 
would  often  soliloquize,  and  lament  his  hard  fate. 
He  little  knew  the  virtues  of  this  crutch. 

One  morning,  after  some  weeks  of  continual 
bathing  and  care,  he  went  into  the  pleasure-bath, 
still  requiring  the  assistance  of  his  crutch.  There 
was  no  one  in  the  bath  that  morning.  He  thought 
he  felt  uncommonly  well;  his  whole  frame  seemed 
more  elastic  than  usual ;  his  spirits  were  exhilarated 


124       WHITE  SULPHUE  PAPERS 

to  a  greater  degree  than  he  had  known  them  for 
years;  he  was  once  more  in  Chestnut-street.  He 
stood  erect ;  he  walked  over  the  bath  a  well  man, 
without  any  assistance.  After  his  first  transports  of 
delight,  he  suddenly  thought  of  his  crutch ;  it  was 
not  with  him.  Had  it  left  him,  or  had  he  come  into 
the  bath  without  it?  Certainly  not.  Where  was 
it?  He  passed  his  hands  over  his  eyes ;  was  he 
dreaming?  There  was  the  crutch  directly  opposite, 
in  the  same  erect  attitude  as  himself.  He  advanced 
towards  it;  followed  it  round  and  round  the  bath 
many  times,  surprised  at  his  own  vigor  and  activity. 
The  crutch  in  his  imagination  assumed  a  new  shape ; 
he  thought  he  saw  a  dancing  leg  capering  in  the 
stream;  he  tried  his  own;  they  were  well  and  nim- 
ble. He  heard  an  approaching  noise  of  the  cripples 
coming  in  at  their  regular  time.  What  would  happen 
now  ?  He  was  a  man  of  reading  and  romance,  and 
had  heard  of  stranger  things  and  wasn't  disposed  to 
be  over  curious  or  surprised ;  he  determined  to  keep 
the  secret,  and  left  the  bath. 

The  cripples  entered  the  bath ;  they  saw  nothing 
surprising.  In  a  little  while,  one  who  had  been  a 
bather  much  longer  than  the  rest,  thought  he  saw 
a  leg;  he  pursued  it  in  silence,  until  he  danced  him- 
self; he  kept  the  secret  for  fear  of  being  laughed  at. 

How  many  have  since  followed  that  leg  around 


STORY    OP   A   CRUTCH.  125 

this  stream,  it  has  never  been  known;  but  there  it 
is  said  to  be  still  dancing,  invisible  to  all  but  the 
helpless  sojourner,  who  only  beholds  it  after  some 
weeks  of  probation  at  the  Springs. 

The  original  invalid  who  came  with  the  crutch 
to  the  Springs,  left  very  suddenly,  to  avoid  all  que  s- 
tions  and  remarks  on  his  recovery;  and  often  after- 
wards, whenever  he  heard  that  a  friend  had  gone 
to  the  Springs,  would  be  heard  to  remark,  'I  hope 
he  may  see  the  dancing  leg.' 


11 


«"  * 


126 


CHAP.     XL 


BEAVER-DAM    FALLS THE    MAID    OF    THE  CASCADE. 


AMONG  the  many  attractive  spots  for  wild  scenery, 
and  natural  curiosities,  which  have  as. yet  been 
discovered  in  this  picturesque  region  of  our  land,  are 
Beaver-Dam  Falls,  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Sweet 
Springs.  It  is  a  favorite  drive  of  an  afternoon  for 
many  gay  parties  of  pleasure  from  the  Sweet,  and 
many  come  over  from  the  White  Sulphur  to  write 
poetry  under  the  shade  of  the  dark  rocks,  and  listen 
to  the  singular  murmuring  of  the  waters  which 
abound  with  petrefactions  of  the  prettiest  kind. 

It  is  off  from  the  road  in  a  silent  retreat,  where  the 
old  trees  which  have  been  flourishing  there  for  cen- 
turies, seem  only  to  change  their  appearance  in 
wearing  a  darker  dress  every  year;  and  look  as  if 
guarding  the  glassy  stream  which  has  for  so  long  a 


•0  •• 

*»    '  t  *** 

BEAVER-DAM     FALLS.  127 

time  reflected  then-  branches,  as  part  of  their  own 
province,  defending  it  from  the  sun.  The  beavers 
formerly  held  possession  of  all  this  neighbourhood, 
and  many  of  their  little  residences  in  the  shape  of 
bee-hives  are  still  to  be  seen  here.  The  dam  at  the 
Falls  was  fashioned  by  their  own  hands,  and  here 
they  lived,  until  poetry  and  nature,  giving  way  to 
civilization,  the  beavers  left  the  country,  or  were 
annihilated. 

.  SQ  romantic  a  place  can  hardly  have  failed  to 
^have  given  rise  to  tales  of  love  and  romance.     Con- 
nected with  its  celebrity,  is  an  incident  of  life  vof 
recent  occurrence,  which  is  here  written  in  verse. 


t 


-•*    •  '    » 


*   •   *-• 


THE   MAID  OF   THE  CASCADE. 


,« 


THE    MAID    OF    THE    CASCADE. 


In  times  of  late,  there  was  a  fair  young  maid  ! 

Whose  soft  poetic  and  romantic  mood, 
By  shaded  stream — and  water  fall  and  glade, 

Oft  sent  straying  in  her  solitude. 

She  was  more  handsome  than  some  women  are  ; 
Dark  eyes — fine  form — and  pretty  foot  withall ; 
And  few  maidens  with  her  could  compare, 

In  dance,  or  grace,  or  waltzing  at  the  ball. 
•*y  -..  "» 

Ah  me !  how  many  fine  young  men  I've  seen, 

Sighing  for  love  of  her,  and  twining  flowers, 

In  sweet  bouquets,  of  pinks  and  myrtle  green ; 

To  lend  a  fragrance  to  her  laughing  hours. 

j 

In  rides  by  day — in  walks  by  silent  night, 
But  I  misname ,  for_in  this  happy  place, 

There's  nothing  dark : — 'tis  soft  moon-light, 
Or  day  come  back  with  poetry  and  grac*. 


132  THE    MAID    OF   THE    CASCADE. 

At  all  these  times,  the  courted  and  the  gay; 

The  life  —  the  laughing  beauty  of  the  throng  ; 
She  gave  so  much  to  wing  the  time  away, 

With  flashing  wit,  with  music,  and  with  song. 

Some  there  were  ;  —  you'll  meet  them  every  where  ; 

They  are,  perhaps,  at  most  a  harmless  set: 
Who  said  that  .other  women  were  as  fair  ; 

And  as  for  her  they  thought  her  a  coquette. 

•  ** 

Their  dark  whispering  often  she  had  heard  ; 

But  what  cared  she,  to  her  it  was  the  same 
If  envy  even  in  the  fancy  word, 

Did  style  her  grace  by  any  other  name. 

But  we  digress  —  there  was  within  a  mile 
In  distance,  from  the  sweet,  sweet  Springs  — 

How  oft  the  thought  of  them  an  hour  beguiles  ; 
What  witching  joys  their  recollection  brings. 

There  was  within  a  wild  and  rugged  glen 

Half  seen,  half  shaded  from  the  passing  view  ; 

Where  long  ago  the  beaver  made  his  den  — 
A  spot  which  legend  and  romance  well  knew. 


THE    MAID    OP    THE    CASCADE.  133 

There  was  a  rock,  that  hung  above  the  stream, 
which  softly  flowed  in  beauty  through  the  glade; 

And  where  it  stopped,  what  broke  its  quiet  dream] 
The  falling  waters  of  a  bright  cascade. 

'Twas  said  if  on  that  rock,  engraven  there 
By  maiden  hand,  a  lover  read  his  name, 

That  then  by  all  most  beautiful  and  fair, 

Her  hand !  her  snow-white  hand,  he  then  could  claim. 

There  she  determined  in  a  merry  mood, 
To  write  a  name  that  none  of  them  could  read. 

"  'Twill  puzzle  all,"  she  said,  "  make  a  prelude 
To  other  farces" — but  now  to  proceed. 

One  evening,  long  before  the  sun  had  set ; 

On  foot  alone,  on  sportive  mischief  bent, 
This  laughing  girl  whom  many  called  coquette, 

Had  reached  the  spot — too  late  then  to  repent. 

As  then  she  thought :  and  now  with  light  step  stealing, 

She  trembling  walks ;  she  pauses — looks  around ; 
But  hush!  what  noise1?  it  comes  now  revealing 

No  fearful  thing ; — the  waters'  murmuring  sound. 

• 

One  step ;  another : — she's  there  in  her  delight : 

Her  trembling  hand  with  busy  thoughts  essayed 
To  write  some  name — when  giddy  from  the  height 

She  falls  in  the  basin  of  the  bright  cascade. 
«  12 


134  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

t  - 

There  like  a  Nai'd,  beneath  the  water's  play. 

Struggling,  her  confusion  to  recover, 
All  in  the  dancing  stream  in  fright  she  lay," 
Until  rescued  by  a  gallant  lover. 


Some  months  went  by  ;  the  scene  was  changed,  and  now 
Where  fairy  forms  are  gliding  to  and  fro ; 

And  brightest  smiles  are  wreathing  every  brow, 
The  girl  of  summer  days  is  bending  low, 

A  falling  veil  of  snowy  whiteness  covers 
Her  dark  hair :  her  hand  she  disengages, 

To  take  the  token  given  by  all  lovers — 

The  ring — the  marriage  cement  of  all  ages. 

She  was  a  Bride — their  daily  bliss  now  heightens 
Of  him — and  her  who  was  the  courted  maid ! 

And  'mid  the  scenes  their  cherished  mem'ry  brightens 
Is  their  adventure  at  the  bright  cascade. 


-  *r- 

•*  -.« 


SKETCHES    OF    CHARACTER   AT    THE 
SPRINGS. 


f. 


137 


CHAP.  XII. 


SKETCHES    OF    CHARACTER    AT    THE    SPRINGS. 


THE  greatest  variety  of  character  is  always  to  be 
met  with  at  watering  places ;  and  as  our  country 
is  the  land  of  originals,  whoever  goes  forth  in  search 
of  the  curious  and  the  picturesque,  will  be  most 
certain  to  find  it 

Foreigners,  travelling,  generally  have  very  singu- 
lar notions  about  us ;  and  mistaken  ideas  as  to  the 
topography  of  the  country :  astonished  at  its  extent 
as  they  advance,  and  wondering  if  there  can  be  any 
tiling  beyond.  One  would  sometimes  think  that  the 
United  States  was  not  laid  down  on  the  maps  sold  in 
London  and  Paris. 

A  Swiss  gentleman,  who  had  been  some  time  at 
the  north,  made  a  jaunt  last  summer  from  the  White 
Sulphur  to  Guyandotte,  for  the  purpose,  as  he  said, 
of  taking  a  view  of  "  de  Mississippi." 

12* 


138  WHITE   SULPHUR   PAPERS. 

He  was  asked,  on  his  return,  how  he  liked  the 
looks  of  the  mighty  stream ;  but  he  was  very  shy 
of  the  subject  ever  after. 

The  Mississippi  river  is  many  miles  from  Guyan- 
dotte. 


Many  enquiries  were  made  this  summer  for  Col. 
P— .,  the  former  gallant  master  of  ceremonies,  per 
choice,  of  the  ball-room  at  the  White  Sulphur.  He 
had  grown  grey  in  the  service  of  his  country  and 
the  fair;  and  the  belles  and  beaus  of  the  last  six 
seasons  have  many  flattering  notices  of  him  in  their 
journals  and  recollections  of  those  days. 

The  Colonel  had  a  way  of  preserving,  by  his 
example  and  tact,  the  best  order  among  the  gen- 
tlemen and  the  dancers ;  he  regulated  the  music ; 
introduced  young  ladies,  who  were  strangers,  to 
partners  for  the  cotillion ;  and  a  determined  shake 
of  the  head  from  him,  would  throw  a  noviciate  off 
his  balance. 

He  was  a  great  favourite  with  the  ladies  and  an 
asserter  of  then*  rigdts,  and  always  had  some  humor- 
ous anecdote  for  them.  He  was  the  founder  of  a 
very  useful  society  for  the  encouragement  and  pro- 
motion of  marriage,  which  he  very  whimsically 


SKETCHES   OP    CHARACTER.  139 

styled,  "  The  Billing,  Wooing  and  Cooing  Society.'' 
The  articles  of  the  constitution  were  written  on  a 
long  roll  of  pink  paper,  manufactured  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  signed  by  no  less  than  seventeen  hundred 
gentlemen,  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  It 
hung  in  the  ball  room  on  the  wall,  (even  on  Sundays) 
where  its  advocates  would  be  constantly  reminded 
of  their  faults,  whenever  they  went  amiss ;  and  it  is 
said  to  have  had  a  very  beneficial  effect  on  many 
young  men. 

Many  will  remember,  when  during  the  summer 
of  thirty  six,  then  late  in  the  season,  when  the  ladies 
had  given  up,  from  fatigue  or  their  own  reasons, 
attending  the  ball  room  every  evening;  how  the 
Colonel,  in  despair  at  not  having  a  dance,  gallantly 
placed  himself  at  the  head  of  the  band,  and  went 
round  and  serenaded  them  all.  This  last  appeal 
was  irresistible,  and  the  attendance  was  large  so 
long  as  the  Colonel  remained. 

We  hope  to  have  the  pleasure  of  again  meeting 
the  amiable  Colonel  at  the  same  agreeable  place, 
superintending  and  providing  new  pleasures  for  the 
fan",  and  in  restored  health  and  excellent  spirits. 


140  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 


An  hour  at  the  Spring  during  the  morning  and 
-  evening,  when  the  company  all  gather  there,  is  the 
time  for  observation — where  you  may  learn  the 
news,  survey  the  new  comers ;  and  where  diffident 
men  take  stolen  glances  at  beauty. 

It  is  long  before  breakfast,  just  after  sun  rise,  and 
rather  cool;  here  comes  a  gentleman  wrapped  in 
his  thick  morning  gown,  with  slippers  and  cap,  he 
stops  at  the  Spring,  dips  the  long-handled  glass  and 
takes  one  draught;  he  whistles  himself  awake,  takes 
another,  and  then  returns  to  Bachelor's  row,  to  sleep 
an  hour.  There  comes  a  maid  with  a  pitcher  to 
carry  the  cooling  draught  to  some  sleeping  beauty 
in  Paradise  row. 

Two  old  gentlemen  have  come  to  the  Spring; 
they  are  discussing  the  merits  and  great  benefits  to 
be  derived  from  the  use  of  the  waters.  One  of  them 
says,  he  has  been  in  the  habit  of  taking  six  glasses 
for  some  mornings  past,  and  he  feels  so  much  better, 
he  believes  he  will  now  take  eight. 

Numbers  are  coming  in,  impatient  for  their  daily 
Libations.  Dyspepsia  enters  the  area,  weak  and 
wasted;  he  takes  perhaps  four  glasses,  and  retires 
with  a  renervated  walk.  Hypochondria  comes ;  he 
sees  no  one  for  awhile,  and  will  know  no  one ;  he 
drinks  one  glass,  seats  himself,  and  in  a  little  while 
has  taken  four  more ;  he  rises — tries  to  smile,  and 
makes  a  remark  on  the  weather. 


SKETCHES  OP  CHARACTER.        141 

mf 

The  reveller  of  last  night,  drinks  several  times 
with  rapidity ;  he  feels  refreshed,  and  exclaims — 

Cheering  draught  to  the  poisoned  soul, 
When  it  has  been  steeped  in  the  purple  bowl. 


By  this  time,  the  area  of  the  Spring  is  filling  up. 
Ladies  and  young  misses,  old  men  with  canes,  inva- 
lids, and  early  risers ;  and  often  you  may  see  the 
blooming  face  of  some  young  fair  one,  who  prefers 
the  breath  of  the  morning,  air,  ,to  sleeping  until 
breakfast. 

There  is  a  small  pale  man  in  black;  he  has  taken 
a  seat  and  is  resting  with  his  chin  on  his  cane; 
occasionally  he  raises  his  head,  and  gives  an  unmean- 
ing stare  at  some  persons  just  entering  the  Spring- 
house,  and  with  a  look  of  apathy,  he  beholds,  and 
hears  the  laughing  talk  of  the  gayer  crowd  around 
him.  He  is  an  invalid,  and  an  entire  stranger;  go 
to  him,  and  offer  your  hand — ask  him  how  he  feels 
this  morning — if  the  ^waters  benefit  him ;  he  will 
thank  you  from  his  heart,  and  smile  perhaps  for  the 
first  time  since  his  arrival.  How  much  a  kind 
word  from  any  one,  will  gladden  the  heart  of  a  poor 
invalid  at  a  place  like  this !  the  most  trifling  notice 
which  costs  you  nothing  will  be  to  him  a  blessing: 
Remember  this,  young  ladies!  forget  it  not,  Lo- 
thario's ! 


142        WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 
*#l  '  *" 

Within  a  few  yards  of  us,  is  another  Spring,  where 
the  noisy  servants  are  drawing  water  for  the  cabins, 

But  there's  the  breakfast  bell,  and  now  all  hurry 
to  the  hall,  with  sharpened  appetites. 

Five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  We  are  at  the 
Spring  again.  The  first  bell  has  rung.  Unlike  the 
gathering  of  the  morning,  they  are  coming  in  merry 
groups,  all  are  wide  awake.  The  robed  bachelor 
'of  the  morning,  is  now  the  gay  Lothario.  The 
veiled  female  of  that  hour,  is  now  the  attended  belle 
at  the  Spring. 

The  crowd  is  approaching  from  all  the  walks. 
The  ladies,  some  with  parasols,  or  a  light  kerchief 
over  their  heads — some  on  the  arms  of  gentlemen — 
some  walking  alone,  or  in  parties.  Here  comes  one 
large  gentleman  with  a  lady  on  each  arm,  his  wife 
and  wife's  sister,  or  he  is  an  uncle  with  two  nieces, 
but  his  convoy  is  too  large  to  enter  between  the 
pillars,  and  he  detaches  one,  who  is  joined  by  an 
acquaintance,  to  whom  the  large  gentleman  smiles 
a  vote  of  thanks. 

The  Spring  is  surrounded,  there  are  but  two  dip- 
pers and  many  have  to  wait,  which  time  is  pleasantly 
filled  up  with  lively  talk,  and  the  place  resounds 
with  the  merry  ring  of  some  gay  hearted  laugh. 

The  belles  are  here,  and  the  beaux  are  not  far 
off.  Apart,  you  hear  the  remarks  of  the  bystanders, 


SKETCHES  OF  CAAEACTER.       143 

on  the  beauty  of  some  fair  drinker,  and  the  admira- 
tion of  the  distant  gazers.  Look  at  her,  says  one, 
how  surpassingly  beautiful.  See — 

"  She  drinks — she  drinks ;  behold  the  matchless  dame ; 
To  her  'tis  water — but  to  us  'tis  flame." 

The  ladies  are  dressed  for  tea,  and  many  of  them 
will  go  afterwards  to  the  ball  room  in  the  same 
attire. 


By  special  invitation  we  were  present  at  an  en- 
tertainment given  at  the  Wolf,  in  honor  of  the  advent 
of  the  hunting  season  on  the  same  evening. 

Who  has  been  to  the  White  Sulphur  and  not  heard 
of  the  "Wolf?"  it  is  almost  as  old  as  the  Alhambra, 
and  quite  as  celebrated  in  its  way.  It  is  a  castle 
also,  after  its  own  style  of  architecture,  and  stands 
on  the  borders  of  Wolf  Hill,  and  joins  the  row  of  the 
same  name,  and  commands  the  finest  view  of  the 
surrounding  scenery  and  the  mountains.  It  is  orna- 
mented with  two  piazza's,  or  as  a  late  Col.  in  the 
army  used  to  say,  it  has  a  "Pizarro"  in  front,  and  a 
"Portorico"  in  the  rear. 

This  is  the  residence  of  Nimrod  and  the  fox- 
hunters.  The  apartments  are  decorated  with  the 
trophies  of  many  a  successful  days'  sport,  in  the 
branching  antlers  of  stags — brushes — bearskins— 


144  WHITE     SULPHUR    PAPERS* 

and  a  great  variety  of  fire-arms  —  hunting  dresses  — 
and  bugles  —  which  are  hung  around. 

The  party  on  this  occasion  numbered  about  twenty. 
The  firing  of  a  gun  from  the  front  door,  (something 
new)  was  the  signal  that  all  was  ready  —  and  to 
notify  absent  guests  who  were  expected,  to  be  forth- 
coming. 

The  table  was  spread  with  a  most  inviting  repast, 
the  delecate  productions  from  the  limits  of  twenty 
miles  :  The  noble  deer  was  there  before  us,  the 
spoil  of  the  morning,  in  every  shape  in  haunch,  in 
stew  and  in  stake  —  and  barbecues  and  strange 
dishes,  all  novelties  to  a  city  man.  In  the  centre  of 
the  table  was  something  peculiar—  it's  name  is  no^ 
uncommon,  mint-julap,  but  we  had  never  seen  one 
like  this.  The  tumbler,  if  it  can  so  be  called,  was  of 
half  gallon  size,  frozen  on  the  outside,  and  so  'rich 
were  the  contents,  the  green  herb  was  actually 
sprouting  from  the  surface,  or  else  very  ingenously 
placed  there.  The  top  was  ornamented  with  flowers. 
to  make  it  more  insinivating,  as  Capt.  -  observed 
who  sat  near  me.  This  was  passed  round  to  be 
looked  at,  various  times,  but  it  still  appeared  as 
original  and  as  fresh  as  at  the  beginning  ;  or  magic 
changed  the  glass. 

The  enjoyment  and  merriment  were  rare  —  the 
characters  were  original  —  the  stories  were  new  and 


SKETCHES  OF  CHARACTER.        145 

good — and  the  songs  were  new;  the  traveller  is 
seldom  favored  with  such  a  treat.  Claret  was  the 
general  drink  I  believe  among  the  Fox-hunters  of 
old,  but  Hock  appeared  to  be  the  favorite  beve- 
rage here.  And  among  the  many  sparkling  songs 
was  the  following,  which  was  dedicated  to  the 
virtues  of  Hock : 

Away  with  all  grief — 

And  let  us  be  merry, 
And  fill  up  the  bumpers  with  wine ; 

But  let  it  not  be 
With  Madeira  or  Sherry — 

But  Hock !  give  us  Hock ! 

Sparkling  Hock !  from  the  Rhine. 

For  Hock  is  the  wine — 

-And  it  comes  from  the  Rhine — 
From  the  land  of  old  legend  and  song ; 

And  drink  as  we  may 
The  heart  rises  gay — 
As  night  with  her  shades,  and  her  joys  flies  along. 


13 

';** 


146  WHITE    SULPHUR    PAPERS. 

When  we  drink  of  its  nectar — 

The  fancy  in  dreams, 

Wanders  away  to  the  soft  flowing  streams : 
To  the  land  where  the  maidens 

Are  tilling  the  vine — 
And  pressing  the  grape 
On  the  banks  of  the  Rhine. 
And  now  let  it  be — 
Thro'  this  land  of  the  free : 
Far  and  wide  on  her  bright  banners  spread  : 
While  beauty  shall  shine — 
That  Hock  is  the  wine ; 
Thro'  summer  and  winter  'till  youth  shall  have  fled. 


It  was  now  late — and  the  serenaders  being 
announced  with  their  music,  the  party  broke  up, 
many  of  them  to  accompany  these  important  cha- 
racters on  their  rounds,  while^the  author  of  Peter 
Simple  and  myself,  made  our  way  to  Georgia  Row. 

Phrenology  thrives  well  at  the  Springs,  not  because 
it  is  the  only  head  profession  here — but  from  there 
being  so  many  persons  at  all  places  like  this,  who  are 
very  willing  sometimes,  to  be  made  pleased  with 
themselves  when  the  cost  is  so  little. 


SKETCHES  OF  CHARACTER.       147 

Several  of  the  disciples  of  the  science  of  Combe 
and  Spurzheim,  were  on  the  ground  during  the  sum- 
mer. I  attended  the  lecture  of  one  at  the  ball  room. 
The  author  after  expatiating  largely  upon  the  vast 
benefits  arising  to  mankind  from  the  art,  blindfolded 
himself,  and  said  he  was  ready  to  pronounce  upon 
the  head  of  any  well  known  individual  present. 

A  little  boy  with  a  larga  head  was  sent  up — he 
mounted  the  chair,  and  science  began  "  remarkably 
fine  head  —  the  organs  are  very  prominent  — 
benevolence  very  large — I  should  say,  he  was  a 
man  whose  whole  course  of  a  long  life  had  been 
devoted  to  charitable  objects — "•  here  the  audience 
smiled,  and  the  little  girls  tittered,  and  the  youngster 
came  down  ;  and  the  lecturer  went  on  to  say,  that 
he  would  examine  heads  that  ev&mg  ;  and  furnish 
characters  from  dinner  until  dark  at  one  dollar  each. 

I  never  would  throw  a  pebble  in  the  way  of 
science,  and  Phrenology  no  doubt  is  a  very  pleasant 
belief,  for  those  who  have  .flattering  developme: 


"Old  Charley"  is  a  character  who  must  not  be 
forgotten,  for  he  is  a  grand  caterer  of  the  mess-hall, 
and  a  great  killer  of  sheep ;  besides  which  he  fills 
many  important  offices.  He  attends  at  the  « Wolf,' 


148       WHITE  SULPHUR  PAPERS. 

on  great  occasions,  and  is  the  grave-digger,  par 
excellence ;  whenever  that  service  is  required,  and 
he  often  complains  that  his  spade  gets  rusty,  so  few 
persons  die  here.  He  has  performed  many  won- 
derful feats  in  his  way;  such  as  beating  the  best 
marksmen  of  the  south  and  west,  even  some  of  those 
who  have  shot  with  Colonel  Crockett.  He  has  rode 
from  the  White  Sulphur  to  Union,  and  ba^k,  be- 
tween sun  down  and  dark,  to  use  his  own  words  ; 
and  he  boasts  of  having  taken  in  the  knowing  ones, 
when  horses  were  the  trade  and  good  bargains  were 
to  be  had. 

He  has  a  red  glassy  eye,  which  he  shoots  at  you 
sideways,  with  a  very  meaning  expression ;  and  the 
boys  and  old  women  of  the  farms  say  he  is  a  conju- 
ror; no  wonder,  when  he  has  been  seen  to  come 
from  the  direction  of  the  grave  yard  at  hours  when 
but  few  else  were  stirring. 

He  converses  very  freely  sometimes,  and  when- 
ever the  conversation  is  military,  he  has  a  tale  about 
having  seen  "  forty  thousand  Britishers  at  the  bom- 
bardment of  Fort  McHenry,  in  1809,"  and  he  will 
go  over  the  whole  battle  very  correctly  and  graphi- 
cally, according  to  his  own  notion. 

He  will  no  doubt  live  a  long  time  yet,  and  then 
disappear  very  suddenly,  as  most  conjurors  gene- 
rally do. 


SKETCHES  OP  CHARACTER.       149 

Duncan  is  a  hero,  and  I  had  almost  forgotten 
him,  though  he  never  forgets  the  lodgers  in  Alaba- 
ma Row,  which  is  his  province,  and  so  faithful  and 
attentive  that  he  never  leaves  it.  Georgia  Row  is 
only  a  short  distance  off;  but  he  knows  about  as 
much  of  its  precincts  as  he  would  of  that  state,  if 
questioned. 

He  boasts  of  Scotch  descent ;  and  has  the  twang 
on  his  tongue :  this  perhaps,  accounts  for  his  super- 
stitious dread  of  the  Jack  O'Malanterns  which  are 
seen  about  the  Spring  of  dark  nights:  he  calls  them 
great  misleaders. 

Duncan  expects  a  rich  harvest  next  summer  at 
the  White  Sulphur. 


13 


>-'•     fr 


6'~. 


-*: 

M 

t      * 


APPENDIX 


153 


APPENDIX. 


THE  White  Sulphur  Springs,  owned  by  James 
Calwell,  esq.  in  the  county  of  Greenbriar,  Virginia, 
are  260  miles  from  Washington,  and  200  miles 
from  Richmond. 

Travellers  to  the  Springs  from  the  North  gene- 
rally come  by  the  way  of  Washington,  where  they 
take  the  steamboat  to  Fredericksburgh  60  miles. 
The  remaining  part  of  the  journey  is  by  land  travel 
over  a  very  good  mountainous  road  for  the  last  100 
miles  of  the  route.  Travellers  by  the  public  stage 
reach  Charlottesville  at  the  close  of  the  first  day 
after  leaving  Washington,  passing  through  Staunton 
on  the  next;  breakfasting  at  the  Warm  Springs  on 
the  morning  of  the  third  day,  and  arrive  at  the 
White  Sulphur  the  same  evening. 

The  Warm  Springs  are  forty  miles  this  side  of  the 
White  Sulphur  on  the  same  road.  The  Hot  Springs 
are  five  miles  beyond  the  Warm.  The  Red  Sul- 
phur is  45  miles  from  the  White.  The  Sweet 
Springs  are  sixteen  miles  from  the  White.  The 


154  APPENDIX. 

Salt  Sulphur  is  270  miles  from  Washington,  25  miles 
from  the  White  Sulphur ;  22  miles  from  the  Sweet 
Springs;  16  miles  from  the  Red  Sulphur,  and  60 
miles  from  the  Hot  and  Warm  Springs. 

The  traveller  enjoys  even  in  the  warmest  days  of 
July  and  August,  a  refreshing  breeze  during  the 
morning  and  evening;  riding  generally  from  four 
o'clock  A.  M.  until  nine  P.  M.  The  time  occupied  by 
.  private  conveyances  from  Fredericksburg  to  the 
White  Sulphur  in  six  days. 


APPENDIX.  155 


The  following  Extracts  are  taken  from  a  late 
English  work,  by  Edwin  Lee,  of  Cheltenham: — 

"The  class  of  Sulphurous  Waters  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant and  efficacious  in  the  removal  of  many  intractable 
diseases.  The  sulphur  exists  most  frequently  in  combination 
with  hydrogen  gas,  on  which  account  these  waters  in  general 
do  not  bear  exportation.  Carbonic  acid  gas  and  various 
salts,  sometimes  in  large  quantities,  also  enter  into  their 
composition.  As  they  are  exceedingly  stimulating,  their 
use  requires  much  caution  and  discrimination,  especially  in 
weak  persons  of  an  irritible  and  nervous  temperament,  and 
in  those  disposed  to  congestion  of  the  brain  or  lungs,  or  to 
hemorrhagic  affections.  Their  action  varies  according  to 
the  manner  of  their  ^exhibition,  and  to  the  peculiarities  of 
individual  cases.  Used  in  the  form  of  both  their  primary 
operation  is  on  the  skin  increasing  the  activity  of  its  capillary 
circulation  and  secretion,  and  on  the  system':  their  operation 
upon  the  mucous  membranes  and  viscera  being  consequent 
to  their  action  on  the  surface. 

"Internally  taken,  they  act  primarily  upon  the  mucous 
membranes  of  the  stomach  and  bowels,  of  the  air  passages 
or  urinary  organs.  According  to  circumstances  generally 
exciting  the  secretion  of  bile,  and  abdominal  venous  circu- 


156  APPENDIX. 

lation:  thus  their  sensible  operation  is  aperient,  diaphoretic, 
diuretic,  or  expectorant,  according  to  the  manner  in  which 
they  are  used,  the  constitution  and  disease  of  the  patient,  the 
nature  and  quality  of  the  saline  substances  they  contain. 
They  may  generally  be  employed  with  advantage  in  some 
atonic  conditions  of  the  circulation,  especially  of  the  abdomi- 
nal venous  system  giving  rise  to  piles,  and  hephatic  obstruc" 
lions;  in  affections  of  mucous  memberanes  accompanied 
with  increased  secretion,  as  chronic  disease  of  the  urinary 
aparatus  with  mucous  discharge,  and  chronic  pulmonary 
catarrh.  In  cutaneous  and  rheumatic  affections,  they  fre- 
quently prove  more  efficacious  than  any  other  class  of  reme- 
dies. Among  the  most  powerful  virtues  of  this  class  of 
Europe,  are  those  of  Aix  La  Chapelle,  Baden  near  Vienna' 
Harrowgate  and  the  Pyrenees. 


APPENDIX.  157 

ACIDULOUS    SPRINGS. 

u  Under  this  head  many  writers  on  mineral  waters  place 
all  those  springs  which  contain  a  large  proportion  of  free 
carbonic  acid,  They  are  for  the  most  part  cold,  very  spark- 
ling, and  effervescing  without  smell,  of  a  sharp  piquant  taste, 
and  soon  lose  their  properties  by  exposure  to  the  atmosphere. 
Their  operation  is  cooling  and  refreshing,  and  at  the  same 
time  exhilirating,  altering  the  quality  of  the  secretions  of  the 
alimentary  canals  and  kidneys,  and  increasing  their  quantity. 
These  waters  are  very  commonly  taken  either  pure  or 
mixed  with  wine,  as  an  ordinary  beverage,  and  are  not  un- 
frequently  exhibited  in  febrile  and  inflammatory  complaints. 
They  sometimes,  however,  prove  too  exciting,  producing 
head-aches,  heaviness,  confusion  of  ideas,  with  general 
agitation  and  sleeplessness ;  but  are  highly  useful  in  many 
cases  of  dyspepsia,  nervous  affections,  with  the  character 
of  relaxation  or  torpor,  pulmonary  complaints,  and  diseases 
of  the  urinary  organs.  The  sweet  water  is  perhaps  the  best 
and  most  familiar  water  of  this  class." 

Under  the  above  head  may  be  classed  the  Sweet 
Springs,  in  Monroe  county,  Virginia,  which  has 
been  described  in  the  preceding  chapter. 


14 


158  .APPENDIX. 

SALINE    APERIENT    SPRINGS. 

"  This  class  of  Springs  is  distinguished  from  others  in 
containing  as  a  predominating  ingredient  sulphiate  of  soda, 
(Glauber's  salt)  or  sulphate  of  magnesia,  (Epsom  salts) 
which  sometimes  exists  in  large  quantities  ;  the  other  mi- 
neralizing substance,  exist  in  comparatively  small  propor- 
tions.    Some  of  these   Springs  are  very  gaseous  and  of 
a  high  temperature,  others  are  cold   and   contain  but  little 
gas.     The  Hot  Springs  are  usually  energetic  in  their  action 
and  exceedingly  exciting  to  the  system,  generally  stimula- 
mulating  the  vascular  aparatus,  and  increasing  the  secre- 
tions.      The  cold  ones   are  antiphylogestic,  cooling,  and 
aperient  purgative,  or  diuretic,  according  to  the  quantity 
taken.       They    usually    bear  exportation  well,   and   are 
less  objectionable  than  the   majority   of  mineral  springs 
in  states  of  vascular  phethora,  febrile  affection,  and  conges- 
tion.    Artificially  prepared  they  are  nearly  as  efficacious 
as  the  natural  waters,  especially  the   imitations  of  those 
which  contain  but  little  carbonic  acid  gas,  manufactured 
Epsom,  Seidlitz  or  Cheltenham  salts  are  but  little  inferior 
in  efficacy  to  those  procured  from  the  springs  themselves, 
and  are  very  commonly  usedjin  the  ordinary  practice  of  medi- 
cine.   Seidlitz  is  a  village  in  Bohemia,  celebrated  on  account 
of  its  bitter  purging  water ;  the  predominating  salt,  is  the 


APPENDIX.  159 

sulphate  of  magnesia  of  which  there  are  more  than  one  hun- 
dred grains  to  the  pint,  as  it  is  not  gaseous,  the  water  does 
not  lose  its  properties  by  being  carried  to  a  distance,  and  is 
much  exported." 

The  waters  of  the  white  Sulphur  Spring,  have 
been  bottled  in  large  quantities  during  the  present 
year,  and  exported  to  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 

The  waters  of  the  Red  Sulphur  are  also  in  pro- 
gress of  being  bottled  by  a  gentleman,  every  way 
competent  and  active,  and  will  be  sent  to  any  part 
of  the  Union,  at  a  fair  rate  of  expense.  These 
several  waters  it  is  said,  preserve  their  virtues  and 
taste  for  any  length  of  time ;  the  bottles  being  carefully 
sealed  with  wax,  at  the  moment  of  being  filled  from 
the  Spring. 

Mineral  Springs  may  be  divided  according  to 
their  temperature  into 

Cold  at  65°Farenheit. 

Cool        -       from  65°  to  77^ 

Tepid  77°  to  90° 

Warm  90°  to  98° 
Hot  above  98° 

The  temperature  of  the  White  Sulphur 

Spring  is          ...  -60°  Faren. 

The  Red  Sulphur     -        -        -        -    54° 


160  APPENDIX. 

The  Salt  Sulphur  has  a  temperature  of  50°  which 
is  the  same  of  those  of  Tunbridge,  in  England. 
The  Warm  Springs  have  a  temperature  of  97  °  Fa. 
The  Sweet  Spring  water  is  nearly  tepid  at  73°  Fa. 

At  the  Hot  Springs,  in  Virginia,  the  temperature 
of  the  different  baths  verge  from  103°  to  106° 

They  have  the  Gentleman's  Hot  Spout  bath ;  the 
Gentleman's  Boiler  or  Sweat  bath;  the  Lady's 
Boiler  ;  the  Lady's  Hot  Spout  bath.  And  in  addi- 
tion to  these  four  baths  above  mentioned,  is  the 
Pleasure  bath,  which  is  contained  in  an  octagonal 
reservoir  of  thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  five  feet 
deep;  there  are  two  spouts  of  two  inches  diameter 
constantly  pouring  streams  of  hot  water  into  the 
reservoir;  the  temperature  of  this  water  is  between 
98°  and  99°  and  the  whole  is  covered  by  an  octa- 
gonal building,  furnished  with  a  dressing  room ;  this 
bath  is  used  alternately  by  ladies  and  gentlemen  for 
periods  of  two  hours. 

Baths  are  usually  taken  in  the  morning,  two  or 
three  hours  after  drinking,  at  a  temperature  between 
86°  and  96°.  They  increase  the  activity  of  the 
cutaneous  circulation  and  secretion;  perspiration 
being  not  unfrequently  produced.  They  have  also 
a  sedative  effect  on  the  nervous  system ;  the  pulse 
becomes  slower  while  in  the  bath,  and  a  tendency 
to  sleep  frequently  supervenes.  Acting  on  the 


APPENDIX.  161 

surface  of  the  body,  they  produce  a  revulsion  from 
the  internal  organs,  promoting  their  secretions,  and 
diminishing  visceral  congestion.  If  taken  at  too 
high  a  temperature,  baths  act  as  stimulants,  increas- 
ing the  frequency  of  the  pulse. 

Dr.  Hunt,  in  his  pamphlet,  gives  the  following 
directions  for  using  the  water  of  the  Red  Sulphur : — 

"  Commence  by  taking  one  glass  of  water  at  bed  time, 
and  one  before  breakfast:  after  a  few  days,  take  two 
glasses  at  bed  time,  and  two  before  breakfast;  one  at 
11  A.  M.,  and  at  5  o'clock,  p.  M.  This  quantity  will 
generally  operate  freely  on  the  bowels.  If  it  is  desired 
to  act  on  the  kidneys,  increase  the  quaintity  of  water  to 
three  or  four  glasses,  between  a  light  supper  and  bed 
time,  and  the  same  quantity  between  day  light  and  break- 
fast time ;  two  glasses  at  noon,  and  one  or  two  glasses 
about  5  o'clock,  p.  M.,  taking  care  to  exercise  freely 
after  drinking. 

According  to  Professor   Rogers : — "  Gaseous  contents 
in  an  imperial  gallon — 

"Sulphuretted  Hydrogen,  4.54,  cub.  in. 

"Carbonic  acid,  8.75. 

"  Nitrogen,  4.25. 

"  Solid  contents  of  32  cubic  inches  of  water,  gr.   1.  25, 
consisting  of  sulphate  of  soda,  lime  and  magnesia,  carbo- 

14* 


162  APPENDIX. 

nate  of  lime,  and  muriate  of  soda.  Besides  these  ingredi- 
ents, the  water  contains,  in  considerable  quantity,  a  pecu- 
liar organic  substance  which,  mingled  with  sulphur,  is  de- 
posited on  the  sides  of  the  spring,  and  seems  to  increase  by 
a  species  of  organic  growth." 

"  The  Red  Sulphur  Water  is  decidedly  sedative  in  its 
effects.  It  subdues  chronic  inflammation,  tranquilizes  irri- 
tation, and  reduces  the  frequency  of  the  pulse  in  the  most 
astonishing  manner. 

"  It  has  been  considered  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  cure 
of  pulmonary  diseases,  and  it  is  true,  that  ithas  a  most  bene- 
ficial influence  in  most  casses  of  this  disease;  but  its  good 
effects  equally  extend  to  all  cases  of  sub-acute  inflammation, 
whether  seated  in  the  stomach,  liver,  spleen,  intestines,  kid- 
neys, and  most  particularly  in  the  mucuous  membrane." 

Dr.  Moorman,  the  resident  physician  of  the  White 
Sulphur  Springs,  thus  enumerates  the  powers  of 
those  waters  : — 

,  £•'••* 

"  In  all  attacks  of  a  Bilious,  class,  a  few  days  or  at  the 
farthest,  a  few  weeks  use  of  the  waters,  produces  the  most 
salutary  results.  The  power  of  this  water  on  all  affections 
of  the  Liver,  the  largest  and  most  important  secretery  organ 
of  the  body  deserves  particular  attention;  volumes  might  be 
filled  with  details  of  results,  most  gratifying,  that  have  taken 
place  in  the  cases  of  innumerable  invalids  from  all  portions 


APPENDIX.  163 

of  the  country,  especially  of  the  thousands  from  the  warmer 
regions  of  the  south. 

In  all  stages  of  Dyspepsia;  in  Chronic  Rheumatism;  in 
Paralysis;  in  Incipient  Calculus;  in  Chronic  Sephilis;  in 
Chlorosei;  in  Hemorrhoids,  Hypochondrasis ;  in  all  condi~ 
times  Ulcer  of  the  Extremities;  in  Cutaneous  Eruptions; 
in  that  enfeebled  and  peculiar  condition  of  the  system  result- 
ing from  the  long  protracted,  or  injudicious  use  of  mercury, 
these  waters  have  proved  themselves  most  indisputably 

efficacious. 

1  •  "*   '   \ 

The  solid  matter  procured  by  evaporation  from  100  cubic 

inches  of  the  White  Sulphur  Water,  when  dried  at  212*, 

weighs  63.54.  grains.     This  consists,  according  to  Profes- 
sor Rogers,  of 

Sulphate  of  Lime, 

Sulphate  of  Magnesia, 
. 

Sulphate  of  Soda, 
Carbonate  of  Lime, 
Carbonate  of  Magnesia, 
Chloride  of  Sodium, 
Chloride  of  Calcium, 
Oxyde  of  Iron, 
Sulph.  Hydrogen  of  Sodium, 
Phosphate  of  Lime, 


164  APPENDIX. 

Organic  Matter, 
Precipitated  Sulphur. 
The  gaseous  matter  consists  of, 
Sulphuretted  Hydrogen, 
Carbonic  Acid, 
Nitrogen, 

Oxygen. 
"As  a  wholesome  and  pleasant  leverage,  or  as  a  corrector 

of  thirst,  the  convalescent  visitor  may  safely  consult  his 

| 

oWn  pleasure  as  to  the  time  of  taking  the  water,  or  the  quan- 
tity to  be  taken. 

With  such  it  may  be  used  with  safety  and  advantage  at 
any  time  of  the  day;  but  with  those  in  feeble  health,  much 
regard  is  due  to  both  time  and  quantity.  The  custom  that 
prevails  at  the  fountain,  of  using  it  an  hour  or  two  before 
each  meal,  is  generally  correct  with  this  qualification,  that 
the  larger  quantity  should  be  taken  in  the  morning  before 
breakfast.  From  two  to  six  glasses  of  the  water  taken  at  this 
time,  followed  by  smaller  quantities  before  each  succeeding 
meal,  usually  exerts  a  decided  cathartic  effect  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  and  at  the  same  time  augments  considerably 
the  ordinary  secretions  of  the  kidneys.  The  effects  of  this 
water,  like  all  other  medical  agents,  are  much  influenced 
by  the  condition  of  the  stomach  and  bowels,  at  the  time  of 
using  it,  as  well  as  by  the  state  of  the  system  generally. 


APPENDIX.  165 

It  therefore  sometimes  happens,  that,  in  order  to  secure  its 
full  effects,  larger  quantities  than  those  indicated  are  re- 
quired. Nor  is  much  oppression  of  stomach  apt  to  be 
experienced,  by  those  enfeebled  by  disease,  from  much 
larger  portions.  So  lightly  does  this  water  lie  on  the 
stomach,  that  invalids  have  been  often  known  to  treble  the 
quantity  above  prescribed,  without  experiencing  any  mate- 
rial inconvenience  therefrom.  A  slight  acquaintance  with 
the  properties  of  the  water,  will,  however,  satisfy  every  one, 
that  such  inordinate  quantities  can  be  seldom  necessary,  or 
proper,  whilst  experience  teaches  that  they  are  sometimes 
prejudicial. 

A  serious  error  is  frequently  committed  by  invalids,  at 
the  very  commencement  of  the  use  of  the  waters.  Arriving 
at  the  Springs  with  systems  morbidly  excited  by  long  or 
rapid  travelling,  and  often  with  bowels  obstinately  costive, 
the  invalid  seeks  the  fountain,  and  hastily  distends  his 
stomach  with  enormous  quantities  of  water,  under  the  erro- 
neous notion  that  he  is  to  be  benefitted  in  proportion  to  the 
quantity  taken,  or  upon  the  vague  inference  that  "  if  a  little 
is  good  more  is  better."  The  consequence  of  this  procedure 
not  unfrequently  is  a  hasty  determination  in  his  mind  that 
the  water  is  unsuited  to  his  case,  "  for  it  disagreed  with  him 
from  the  moment  he  took  it."  Under  such  an  imprudent 


166  APPENDIX. 

procedure,  it  could  scarcely  be  expected  to  turn  out  other- 
wise. In  the  excited  state  of  the  system  referred  to,  the 
water  should  be  used  sparingly  at  first — principally  in  the 
morning,  and  due  care  taken,  if  necessary  to  aid  its  opera- 
tion on  the  bowels  by  some  of  the  means  previously  men- 
tioned. 


THE     END. 


VV.  Moliiieux,  Printer,  cor.  of  Ann  and  Nassau-street?,  N.  Y. 


